1. Forgive me guys, but this vid seems a little blurry compared to others, even on the highest resolution. It seems to be the same viewed here or as a download (again, even at 720p).
    Nevertheless, enjoyed it as always!

    1. It looks “softer” to me too, though not terrible. As the son of a photographer, I sense that something has changed with camera settings from previous episodes. There’s less depth of field. Most of the work piece and stuff at the front of the bench is very sharp, but Paul is less sharp, and the background objects much less sharp.

      Maybe there’s a change in lighting, enough to cause the lens to open more (sacrificing DOF)? One stop smaller f-stop will likely resolve it.

      Or maybe it’s the setting for points of focus, fewer rather than many? (Digital cameras have sooooooo many choices.)

      One thing’s certain. Whichever camera zooms in for tight shots, like when Paul is showing us squareness, is very sharp.

      In the end, the ideas conveyed are much more valuable than a little soft focus!

      THANKS for yet another fine episode.

        1. It might well be that the focus was out on the wide angle, sorry about that. We have totally updated the lighting since these videos, so see what you think in a couple of episodes time. And will remember to double check the focus on the wide angle next time (:

  2. Quick question…if the board was convex instead of concave, would you apply the same clamping fix or would you choose to plane it straight?

    Thank you for the video- very enjoyable.

        1. You and me both Jeff. I found that my current workbench was no good to me once I’d raised it to a good height for hand tool work (it now dances all over the place when I try to plane anything) so I’m starting with a version of Paul’s bench. I don’t know about you but I find it very useful to be a few projects behind everyone; it helps give a context to the lessons.

  3. Cut my first mortise and tenon joint tonight using Paul’s method and the results far exceeded my expectations. As a novice woodworker I feel so empowered by the results and I’m encouraged by the thought that I’m only going to get better. Many thanks Paul these videos are awesome, and you are and excellent teacher.

  4. Thanks again to the master, great illustration of “real”cabinet construction.
    You are showing us all that the imperfections are ever-present, but can be worked out.
    Many of the showman woodworkers out there hide the problems rather than solving them, those are the points we all have to learn how to deal with.
    Great job showing us the practical methods to problem solving.

  5. Good episode. Thanks all!

    What screws is Paul using? The thread pattern looks unfamiliar to me.

    Was Paul’s bowed front due to the crazy grain of his wood (Sapele?)? Easily resolved, but he had me a bit anxious with the explanation at the beginning. I am now thinking I must err on the side of very straight, well behaving grain so things do not go haywire…

    1. I agree Scott, I think Paul deliberately picked Sapele here because he knew it would put up a fight and he could get a chance to show how to tame it. I suspect if he had chosen Oak there would have been fewer videos.

    2. I use self drilling screws even though I pre bore pilots to still take the shanks. Combining standard methods with good and modern screws makes the work all the better and guarantees no splits.
      Yes the grain did affect the wood and changes, but taming wild wood is often necessary mid-work. Best to use straight-grained wood. More predictable usually.

  6. I just got around to glueing-up the cabinet. Everything was going well – the sides were parallel and square, the joints were tight – until I began cramping! After that I rechecked for askew and voilà the diagonals were off by 1/8th and some. I tried my best to correct this but glue freeze set in and that was that. Is this 1/8th going to make much of a difference?

    1. Sorry to hear that Shawn. Done it myself in the dim and distant passed. Aside from alignment visually it will make no difference to the box functionally. You can go in and plane everything parallel to the box now and then use a smaller plane to reestablish the roundover. Bit of a bummer though.

  7. Thanks for all of your encouragement and help making the masterclasses better for others yet to come. ALso, I am amazed at the quality of support you are giving one another along the way. Many forums are quite unpredictable but you have all kept everything lively and helpful!

  8. Hello Paul, I just joined a couple months ago so Im not building the tool box. However I definetly will just as soon as Im through with my Workbench. Would It be appropiate to ask you a question about my Bench. The reason I ask is because Im using Sapele for the frame of my Bench and I think I made a Boo Boo regarding my joinery on my legs to my Trestle’s.
    What happens after this project, Will you do another project and I keep paying the monthly Premium or what? Thanks Christopher

    1. We will continue training episodes like the ones we have done ad infinitum so that the resource becomes more expansive and comprehensive and of course on tap for members to use as they grow in their personal advancement. We already have other projects planned and many short ones that will be quick, informative and interesting to everyone. So, everything from making tools like traditional mallets and bow saws to saw horses and even bandsawn birdhouses.

  9. Great videos! I like the amount of care and detail put into the assembly. If I’m learning one thing, is patience.

    Quick question, how many more videos are left in this series?

    Thank you,

  10. Great lesson as always, Paul. One thing at the very end is confusing me: why did you take off the clamp holding the straightening board after putting the two long-reach clamps into place? I would have thought you would let the glue dry first.

  11. I didn’t know where to put this comment since it applies to several lessons, but …

    Never used a #80 scraper (nor owned one) before. However, I have had problems with Sapele, my favorite wood (as well as purpleheart), with tearout and such.

    After seeing Paul’s use of it, I bought a #80 in whatever shape I could get, sharpened the blade to 45 degrees and started scraping. It was like magic! The wood is smooth as can be and NO TEAROUT!

    Now if I can only have those projects back where I sanded and sanded and then some more.

    Thanks for all your efforts.

  12. I am in the midst of this one. I cut my dovetails on the sides and front a couple of weeks ago and am just getting around to building the bottom and top. I’ve changed the design just a bit and it won’t have the two slim drawers in the front but two deeper drawers side by side. The rest is the same. I am making a mess out of the mortise and tennon joints but I am learning. And like the dove tail joints I’m getting better with every one I cut… Thanks for the great videos!

  13. Paul, you do not make use of diagonal sticks for checking square. Did your teachers not use that method of verification, or did you have a reason to use measurement to verify?
    Discovering your series has changed the course of my woodworking experience and future.
    Thank you for your vision!

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