1. Thanks Paul. On the wall clock video, you reversed the order of operation of the bevels with the explanation that by doing the cross grain bevels first, if you experience any tear out that the with grain bevels later will likely remove any tear out before getting to depth. Curious if you could elaborate why different order of operation here. Many thanks.

  2. Paul, I have a question about fitting the drawer bottoms. I’ve done it the same was as you, on the few occasions that I have made drawers. But, I’ve asked myself, why not just use a thinner piece for the bottom so then the beveling will be unnecessary. It seems that once you bevel the edges, the whole bottom is no stronger than the thinner edges, so why not save yourself some work and just use a thinner piece to start with.
    What am I missing? (I hope I explained myself well)

  3. @21:16 a shaving is seen trapped under the adjusting collar. In some modern replicas of the Stanley router plane, this is a real problem as it is very difficult to extract the trapped shaving. I end up gingerly tapping the knife back and forth through it’s socket to free it. Very annoying.

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