Traveling Joiner’s Toolbox: Episode 7
Posted 13 January 2021
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From marking out for the grooves, to ploughing and chopping them out, and then from raising the panels for the drawer bottoms and dry-fitting them, the important steps follow a certain pattern. Throughout this process, Paul uses many tricks of the trade that can be used in making any drawer type or size.
“Mr Gorbachev, pare down this wall!” Sorry, I had to giggle when you said your words at 14:15 ^^
So I have a question. Could you use a half blind dovetail in place of the through dovetail or would the joint not be strong enough?
Hi,
Paul says:
Yes, you could. It would not be a problem strength wise, just more pernickety and unnecessary.
Izzy
I really appreciate Paul, how you are all about economy; in material, motion and technique.
Great series so far. It looks like there is a piece of paper under the router plane collar when Paul is routing the groove? Is that a shim to help align the blade?
Thanks Paul. On the wall clock video, you reversed the order of operation of the bevels with the explanation that by doing the cross grain bevels first, if you experience any tear out that the with grain bevels later will likely remove any tear out before getting to depth. Curious if you could elaborate why different order of operation here. Many thanks.
Paul, I have a question about fitting the drawer bottoms. I’ve done it the same was as you, on the few occasions that I have made drawers. But, I’ve asked myself, why not just use a thinner piece for the bottom so then the beveling will be unnecessary. It seems that once you bevel the edges, the whole bottom is no stronger than the thinner edges, so why not save yourself some work and just use a thinner piece to start with.
What am I missing? (I hope I explained myself well)
Thanks
Hi,
Paul says:
Thinner is more rattly and I like the bottom weight in the till when I remove it.
Izzy
@21:16 a shaving is seen trapped under the adjusting collar. In some modern replicas of the Stanley router plane, this is a real problem as it is very difficult to extract the trapped shaving. I end up gingerly tapping the knife back and forth through it’s socket to free it. Very annoying.
The style of router plane you are using uses a dado rather than a square socket so clearing the chip is really insignificant, but in the other style, as I have, it is quite a burden to clear.