1. I got a little ahead of you, as I just could not get the dovetails to fit properly. ( Using some old moist wood found in the basement, where we just moved to). So, I just fell back on pocket screws and glue, I did plow groves for the bottom. I made a nice face, to finish and cover the pocket screws and dress the edges around the front. Waiting for the handle, which will serve as an additional support for long boards! Yeah!

    I have been following your teaching videos for a couple of years, and have learned a lot. But being an old man (72) with several health issues, including progressive eye failure, I am having much trouble with knife edge accuracy. Thank you so much for the passing on, so freely of your experience, attention to detail and attitude.

    Steve Noel,
    Liberty, KY USA

  2. Thank you so much for all you give. Your teaching style is second to none. If more teachers were like you. People would enjoy learning again. I would have absolutely enjoyed being an apprentice of yours. Your my favorite YouTube channel. Thanks again from Alabama USA.


  3. Thank you sir. It might be easier to use a holdfast or clamp on the benchtop instead of alternating between vise and benchtop while cutting the dado.
    For the gentleman with sight difficulties, a knife line could be easier because you can feel it with fingers or tip of a knife or chisel.

    1. I believe those are generally located in the compartment at the end of his bench. If my experience is an indicated it’s because things in the drawer would scratch up the surfaces and if all you could keep in the drawer was the stones it would be kind of a waste of convenient drawer space.

  4. If you see him reach for his stones on the side shelves you’ll see they’re right at hand.

    But the real reason is because then his stones would be trapped in his drawer whenever he has long boards clamped to his apron, which happens countless times each day


    Ongoing apron drawer joke, hope my sarcasm was clear

  5. I’m having a hard time understanding if Paul is tapering the mortise for the wedged tenon. I thought normally you taper the mortise for strength but it appears Paul is just replacing the saw kerf with a wedge. Is it primarily for aesthetics?

    1. Hi Scott,

      I passed on your question to Paul and his answer is below:

      I have seen wedge shaped kerfs cut into the tenon to receive the same shape as a wedge but this had no consequence to the compressing qualities of the wedge to the tenon. Far better to drive the wedge which will compress the fibres in the tenon to about 5x the size of a kerf: this level of compression ensures a powerful grip to the tenon within the mortise.

      Kind Regards,

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