5 panel Door (Help)
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- This topic has 11 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 12 months ago by ehisey.
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8 April 2018 at 4:52 pm #520311
Hello all. I’m going to be building this 5 panel door. I believe i’ve worked out most of the joinery and techniques to have a success build. I do have a question on rabbiting the stiles and rails for the step down. The problem I’m going to run into is rabbiting the stiles. They need to be stopped rabbits where the rails meet. What technique should I use to have this corner crisp? I’m using a veritas plow plane. I’m thinking a cross grain knife wall and chop the stop with a chisel. maybe go in with a router plane to clean up the bottom and corner of the rabbit. With my plow plane I can only rabbit up to within an couple inches of the stop do to the fence. So at least 2-3 inches of rabbit will have to be hand cut. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.8 April 2018 at 5:47 pm #520334I think I see your problem. You want the panels to drop into rabets and to be retained by the mouldings. I’m wondering if you could instead run grooves all the way thru the rails and stiles?
Do you want the door to look the same from both sides?
8 April 2018 at 6:43 pm #520362So my plan is mortise and tenon the rails to the stiles first. Next will be to run the plow plane on all rails and styles equally to create the grove for the panels to slide in. No issues so far. It’s the step down or molding that that picture frames each panel section. I really just wanted to create a shallow rabbet on both stile and rail to produce the stepped down molding look. It has to be stopped squarely and precisely on the stile to meet with the rail. Maybe I’m missing something. This will be my largest project so far. I did do a sofa table that tuned out great so this seemed doable
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by MIKE OBRYAN.
I’ve been thinking about your molding issue. I haven’t made a door, but after doing some reading here are a couple of ideas I’ve stumbled upon:
1. An applied molding
The rails and stiles are grooved and mortised and tenoned as normal. The door is assembled and small strips of wood with the correct profile are pinned in place.2. Self molding
The rails and stiles have the molding cut directly on the pieces straight through. The molding around the mortises in the stiles cut away with a miter. The tenon shoulder on the rail is longer by the width of the molding on the stile and the molding on the rail is mitered to fit.I would recommend the book “Doormaking and Window-Making” published by Lost Art Press. I have found its descriptions informative, but I haven’t made any doors so take my advice with a grain of salt.
17 April 2018 at 2:09 am #527491Hey thanks for the info Nate. I actually was thinking of both these ideas. I may go with the pinned molding over the mitered. Then again I may just omit the molding all together to help simplify the build. It is my first door after all. Plus hand tools only will increase the difficulty. Thanks again.
17 April 2018 at 2:21 am #527497A contemporary look is to use raised panels where the panels are only rabbeted and give only a 1/4” or less reveal between the panels and the frame. The bedside cabinet in Paul’s paid projects uses this construction and it’s pretty easy to execute. The other possibility is to decorated the frames with stopped chamfers instead of a moulding.
The nice thing about an applied moulding is you can usually buy them for not too much cost.17 April 2018 at 7:19 am #527627The traditional method is to make a continuous rebate on the stiles along with any profile details ( sticking).
The rails are run with the same profile.
The intersection with the stile and rail has two features:
The ends of the rails are coped to the reverse profile of the sticking on the stiles and cover it, including a profile that lets into the panel groove on the stile.
Easier but less satisfactory method is to remove the sticking on the stiles where the rails intersect and miter the sticking on both stiles and rails where they connect. This tends to be “gappy” when the stiles and rails shrink with the seasons. Even if you cut the sticking off stiles where the rails intersect, it’s better to cope the sticking on the rails rather than mitering.
Over time, the structural joint has progressed from mortise and haunched tenon to large dowels or loose tenons in the interests of production. The old method is slower, but imo still the best.
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by Larry Geib.
- This reply was modified 6 years ago by Larry Geib.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.As mentioned above,the book Doormaking and Windowmaking is well worth the cost if you want to really know about doors. The pdf’s are good quality. I have built doors from it already and will warn you that it does make a few assumptions about what the reader already knows as the book was written at time when folks still apprenticed in joinery shops. Fortunately if you have been part of WWMC for a while Paul has covered most of the “missing” information.
@ed, The basics of windows or lights are covered.
The book covered 2,3,4,dimished stile (large multi pane window) panel doors in addition to several styles of simpler doors, split doors and double doors. I suspect with careful reading you can find the techniques needed to make most every door you could traditionally make.
I found the details on hanging doors to be both useful and enlightening since i have an old 1930 house.
@ehisey maybe I’ll get a copy. I have a single car overhead garage door that I’ve thought of removing and replacing with a pair of hinged, swing-out doors. Unless I figure out how to insulate it, it would likely be less insulated than the existing cheap vinyl overhead door, but it should have better resistance to air infiltration if I build it right. We don’t use the garage for cars, so I could put a post in the middle, although I’d rather not. This should give a better seal against critters, too.
I don’t know about that. I good 1.5 to 2 inch solid wood door is not bad at stopping transfer. As set of good double doors, with proper frame and weather stripping should do decent job of stopping drafts.
As to insulation, not sure what you can do about the stiles, but you can use dual pain glass for the windows, and shop made laminate of thin plywood and insulated sheeting for the panels, you should get a decent barrier.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 12 months ago by ehisey.
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