Adjustment wheel blocking my hand
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14 September 2016 at 2:21 pm #140149
My old #4s adj knob is at the back of the screw and there s barely any room for my hand behind it. I cannot figure out why. Any ideas?
i tried a new cutter and cap iron , no change14 September 2016 at 7:19 pm #140159Dean,
Is your frog sitting very far back?
On mine, even with wheel all the way out, there is plenty of room for my hands. And no one has accused me of having small hands.
Rick G
14 September 2016 at 10:40 pm #140173I use it with a tight throat ie frog at front of bevel and also setIt back about 3/16 for Roughing. Either way the nut is almost off the screw well the back
End of the nut is off the screw.Hello Dean,
It’s hard to visualize without seeing it, but here’s a few of my suggestions..Could it be the Blade set incorrectly on the Cap-Iron, so you’re having to wind it forward (knob moving back) further than usual? Blade should protrude about 1/8″
Apologies if this sounds obvious, you didn’t say how familiar you are with these planes:
Is the Yoke seated in the groove of the Adjusting Knob? If you’d clamped your Frog, Blade & Cap-Iron and Lever Cap, THEN fitted the Adjusting Knob without engaging the Yoke, the Knob would be too far rearward.Was the Yoke removed for restoration? Could it be fitted back-to-front? That might cause this problem.
Is the little Bracket at the rear of the Frog seated in the groove of the Frog Adjustment Screw? If the bracket is not engaged in that Screw, the plane will still work but the whole Frog Assembly would be too far rearward.
There’s little room for my hand between the Handle and Adjusting Knob on the Stanley No.3 and early Stanley No.4. Early No.4’s are slightly smaller than more-recent ones. If your plane is a brand other than Stanley, Record, Woden… could it be that it’s just smaller overall?
You can file a section from the front edge of the Wooden Handle to tailor it for your hand. Paul shows us how he does this in the ‘Plane Restoration’ video.
If you could post a picture of the Adjusting Knob, when its set for normal smoothing, that would help.
Alan
Yes, perhaps the yoke is all the way in front of the wheel as opposed to properly saddled around the notch–that would certainly push the adjustment wheel further out than it should be by a good 1/2″ or so and would make sense as a possible culprit (without seeing a photo).
Hi Dean,
Thanks for the pictures. I see the cause of your problem.
The handle has been repaired and now sits lower and more forward than it would have been originally. If you compare your image with one from a Vintage Stanley No.4 for sale on eBay, you’ll see how yours differs. Particularly the gap between the top of the handle and the Lateral Adjuster.A new handle, or some serious rasping, should solve this for you.
Alan
“The handle has been repaired and now sits lower and more forward than it would have been originally”
@alan141 I thought that too, at first, but if you zoom in on the photo, the curve in the handle is fairly smooth. Not much has been taken out of the handle, if anything. If it were much taller, it would not fit under the lateral adjuster. And the handle is sitting all the way back on the round bump out at the heel of the plane. So, I think something else is going on here, but I have no idea what. A photo showing the mouth of the plane from underneath with the blade mounted and set and a photo of the blade with cap iron installed and adjusted might help? I’m wondering if the cap iron is the wrong one, the hole for the yolk is too far down, and then you have to back out the depth adjuster too far to get the blade down, or something like that. The distance from the bottom lip of the cap iron up to bottom of the hole for the nub from the yolk is 3 5/8″ on my Bailey #4. The hole itself is 3/16 tall. Even if this is part of the issue, it’s not going to close up the space as much as he shows with the ruler. Wrong frog?If only we could pick it up in our hands & rotate it.
Ed: Do you not think the handle could be tilting forward? Even though the bottom half is correct? I thought there might be a wedge of wood missing from the break, ‘cos the paint speckles don’t line up.
Does it say HANDYMAN on your Lever Cap? Your Adjusting-Knob is the Stanley Handyman variety. That could confirm Ed’s Wrong Cap / Wrong Frog suggestion.
I’m intrigued.
We’re assuming Dean’s hands are normal size. lol
Perhaps we should have pictures of your mits alongside a ruler.I don’t know if this will help or not but here is a side-by-side of yours vs. my #4. Your tote might be cocked forward a bit, though not much. Might be worth making a new tote (or buying one on eBay if you don’t want to deal with the hassle) if that is the case. Your adjuster wheel doesn’t look like they typical brass ones either but it’s not clear from the pic if it is taking up more space than it should.
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- This reply was modified 7 years, 7 months ago by David B.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 7 months ago by David B.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 7 months ago by David B.
- This reply was modified 7 years, 7 months ago by David B.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.I could only get Dean’s picture to match a standard No.4 if I widened it.
The sole seems to be shorter than the No.4.
@dbockel2’s picture of the two side-by-side illustrates this.
Could it be a Stanley No.3?
Does it have No.4 cast into the sole at the toe end Dean?“Ed: Do you not think the handle could be tilting forward?”
@alan141 , I suppose so. It didn’t seem like it to a great degree, but you could be right. Quite a puzzle.What’s needed here is a woodworking wife, daughter, or friend with really small hands to take this plane, then Dean buys a new plane that fits his hands.
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