Been naughty again
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Tagged: Stanley 5 1/2
- This topic has 126 replies, 19 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 10 months ago by John Moore.
16 May 2014 at 6:40 am #57183
Nice one Dan, 😉
If gouge was smaller say below 3/4″ I probably would have left it alone as you more likely to use for scribing an ovolo that size.
Dagenham, Essex, England16 May 2014 at 6:51 am #57184
I received the hollows and rounds I got off of eBay yesterday. Most of them need a good clean up and some of the irons not in the best shape. Two or three of them don’t have iron or wedge. I definitely got a bit of a restoration job on.
I have cleaned a couple of them up and had a little play. I can see you can have a lot of fun with these hollows an rounds.
Dagenham, Essex, England
As I was re shaping this, I began to understand and envision the shape it could carve. Maybe if I can find smaller ones I will pick them up. However, who ever had the gouge before me looks like it was just not treated well. Chips in the cutting edge, looks like gouge was never honed.
I can’t wait to see a project where you use the hollows and rounds!16 May 2014 at 1:19 pm #57189
Dan…well done on reshaping the firmer gouge to meet your needs. You now have a tool that will remain special to you.
Mark…I look forward to seeing the hollows and rounds come back to life as you fettle them.
http://hillbillydaiku.com18 May 2014 at 9:01 pm #57214
Went to local car boot sale this morning not a lot of tools but did get a wooden plane for £1 and a Sorby gouge for £0.5
The gouge is quite short but has a nice handle , the plane blade has a lot of corrosion
Was not able to get a good cutting edge I take there is no easy fix. The corrosion goes all the way up the iron so grinding back is not an option.
What is the correct way of restoring wooden chisel handles and plane bodies I cleaned them with wire wool and white spirit. I thought it was not correct to sand back to clean wood?
Wigan, Lancs. England :18 May 2014 at 10:25 pm #57222
looks like you got a couple of nice buys there David did you see Pauls youtube video yesterday on wooden plane restoration https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2lvF8-nc_Q
Eddy .. Liverpool, Merseyside, UK
,19 May 2014 at 7:00 am #57234
Eddy I did see Pauls video but only after I had posted my e-mail i have still to watch it. Dan the blade was not straight and it would have been impossible to flatten the back by lapping I straightened it with a mallet with the blade supported on a couple of pieces of wood. The only problem with my blade is the corrosion,
Wigan, Lancs. England :19 May 2014 at 7:44 pm #57273
I found that the corrosion was a lot worse on the back of the Iron than on the front , so I ground off the bevel and ground a new bevel on the opposite face. This has now given me a cutting edge with no corrosion showing. The plane now works a lot better although it judders when cutting producing surface ripples. Any ideas on what would cause this ?
There are a few cracks in the plane body but do not appear to be too deep
Wigan, Lancs. England :19 May 2014 at 11:03 pm #57279
David, Have you flattened the sole of plane?
Back iron off wooden planes take a bit more tinkering?
How straight is your timber ?
Dagenham, Essex, England20 May 2014 at 6:18 pm #57300
I had flattened it on sandpaper I will check how flat it is tomorrow
The pice I tried to plane was only about 10″ long and was flat It was producing a nice wide shaving but with judder marks in the surface.
Paul had stated that he likes to have a cap Iron on his wooden planes? does a cap iron reduce chance of vibration
Wigan, Lancs. England :20 May 2014 at 7:49 pm #57301
David does the blade make good contact with the plane body? Also check for a gap between the tip of the wedge and the blade. It sounds like your blade is flexing in use.
One way to check that the blade is bedding is to rub pencil over the surface of the blade that contacts the body. Install the blade and wedge. Advance the blade and then remove it. The pencil should rub off on the plane body bed and show you the contact points. You want as much contact as possible to support the blade.
http://hillbillydaiku.com20 May 2014 at 10:44 pm #57307
Some good tips by Greg.
Wedge must be snug fitting.
Maybe sanding the sole made plane grip on wood and caused some friction. I would plane the sole flat.
The plane you have looks quite small so may be a block plane. May be reason why it dose not have cap iron.
Dagenham, Essex, England21 May 2014 at 8:24 pm #57367
Mark you were correct the sole was not flat i had rubbed in on a bit of sandpaper but had not checked it, there was a hollow in the sole around the mouth. I planed it flat and it was much improved. I could plane the edge of a test piece producing full width shavings about .003″ thick, perhaps it was with a £1 after all. It was not good trying to plane the face or end grain of a test piece.
It is nay quite small and I think it would be nice to just use one handed for breaking edges.
Greg I had looked to see if the blade was making good contact and it looked like it was, I will try your suggested pencil trick at the weekend
Thanks for your suggestions
Wigan, Lancs. England :
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