Bench Stool Progress
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Thanks Denise…yep I think it will be a great addition to the shop. I left the back riser off because I know it will be pressed into service as a table. Actually it already was even before it was finished. It held my drawing board while I was building my turning saw.
http://hillbillydaiku.com
Looks great Greg.
Ontario, Canada
Thank you Brian.
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Great job Greg.
Thank you so much Frank.
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Greg it’s beautiful)) I wait till moment when you post finished project)) Please don’t paint))It’s already beautiful)grain and forms)) Thanks for posting)
Toronto, Canada
Great job greg I like the way you have matched the grain on both sides at the front, It would be a shame to hide that detail with paint
Wigan, Lancs. England :
Serhiy and David thank you for the kind words…the grain on the seat was just coincidence/function of the shaping process. While I agree that it looks nice, the rest of the stool does not. As far as grain and wood goes. This stool was literally made from scraps in the shop. There is 2x construction lumber left over from the bench build, pine and a piece of aspen. Consequently, it was always destined for a coat of paint. I’m sorry to disappoint.
http://hillbillydaiku.com
It looks really comfortable nice job Greg.
Dagenham, Essex, England
Thanks Mark. It really is comfortable. I brought it inside last night to make sure that the glue dried, it was -12F here last night with the wind chill. The wife and son tried it out and both laid claim to it. They will have to wait though, this one I’m keeping. It looks like I’ll be getting some more practice in stool building in the very near future. 🙂
http://hillbillydaiku.com
I thought I would post a photo of the milk paint process so that if you decide to try it you will know what to expect. This is Lexington green milk paint and as you can see it dries dead flat. The next step will be to burnish it with steel wool. This will impart a sheen and darken the color a shade. After that I will add 2-3 coats do shellac. Then steel wool the surfCe until smooth. Then paste wax.
Also, since milk paint has almost no odor and is non toxic, I was able to paint the stool in my nice warm kitchen.
http://hillbillydaiku.com
I thought this was interesting if anyone wants to participate.
Memphis, Tennessee
@gman3555 how easy is milk paint to use. I tried paul’s painting technique for a table base using latex paint. it was tricky to remove all the brush strokes, however i’m pleased with the results.
@jason , easy is a subjective term. I use milk paint for several different reasons.
1. non toxic (most important to me)
2. it comes in powder form (I can mix just the amount I need)
3. versatile (I can mix it as a paint or stain)
4. durable (it dries hard but will expand and contract with the wood)I use cheap throw-away brushes or a rag to apply the milk paint and have had no issues with brush strokes. Milk paint dries very flat and has a rough texture. If you want a smooth surface you must lightly sand or burnish with steel wool. Milk paint also offers no real surface protection and must be top coated. Shellac and tung oil seem to be the most popular. I have only top coated with shellac and then wax. It usually takes me three days to apply the finish when using milk paint. Day one is milk paint, let dry for 24hrs. Day two is burnish with steel wool and shellac, let dry 24hrs. Day three is rub out the shellac with steel wool and apply a paste wax.
Like I said, easy is a subjective term.
http://hillbillydaiku.com
Greg Great job it looks great, why would you not clean the brushes out after use I would have thought they would clean in hot soapy water?
Wigan, Lancs. England :
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