Bench Stool Progress
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- This topic has 78 replies, 26 voices, and was last updated 5 years, 12 months ago by Edouard Poitras.
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5 January 2014 at 11:46 pm #25340
Thanks Denise…yep I think it will be a great addition to the shop. I left the back riser off because I know it will be pressed into service as a table. Actually it already was even before it was finished. It held my drawing board while I was building my turning saw.
6 January 2014 at 5:05 am #25356Greg it’s beautiful)) I wait till moment when you post finished project)) Please don’t paint))It’s already beautiful)grain and forms)) Thanks for posting)
6 January 2014 at 10:22 am #25359Great job greg I like the way you have matched the grain on both sides at the front, It would be a shame to hide that detail with paint
6 January 2014 at 12:33 pm #25362Serhiy and David thank you for the kind words…the grain on the seat was just coincidence/function of the shaping process. While I agree that it looks nice, the rest of the stool does not. As far as grain and wood goes. This stool was literally made from scraps in the shop. There is 2x construction lumber left over from the bench build, pine and a piece of aspen. Consequently, it was always destined for a coat of paint. I’m sorry to disappoint.
6 January 2014 at 6:45 pm #25380Thanks Mark. It really is comfortable. I brought it inside last night to make sure that the glue dried, it was -12F here last night with the wind chill. The wife and son tried it out and both laid claim to it. They will have to wait though, this one I’m keeping. It looks like I’ll be getting some more practice in stool building in the very near future. 🙂
10 January 2014 at 1:04 am #25649I thought I would post a photo of the milk paint process so that if you decide to try it you will know what to expect. This is Lexington green milk paint and as you can see it dries dead flat. The next step will be to burnish it with steel wool. This will impart a sheen and darken the color a shade. After that I will add 2-3 coats do shellac. Then steel wool the surfCe until smooth. Then paste wax.
Also, since milk paint has almost no odor and is non toxic, I was able to paint the stool in my nice warm kitchen.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.12 January 2014 at 3:31 pm #25795@jason , easy is a subjective term. I use milk paint for several different reasons.
1. non toxic (most important to me)
2. it comes in powder form (I can mix just the amount I need)
3. versatile (I can mix it as a paint or stain)
4. durable (it dries hard but will expand and contract with the wood)I use cheap throw-away brushes or a rag to apply the milk paint and have had no issues with brush strokes. Milk paint dries very flat and has a rough texture. If you want a smooth surface you must lightly sand or burnish with steel wool. Milk paint also offers no real surface protection and must be top coated. Shellac and tung oil seem to be the most popular. I have only top coated with shellac and then wax. It usually takes me three days to apply the finish when using milk paint. Day one is milk paint, let dry for 24hrs. Day two is burnish with steel wool and shellac, let dry 24hrs. Day three is rub out the shellac with steel wool and apply a paste wax.
Like I said, easy is a subjective term.
12 January 2014 at 4:45 pm #25802Greg Great job it looks great, why would you not clean the brushes out after use I would have thought they would clean in hot soapy water?
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