Carriage makers plane
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- This topic has 7 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 9 months ago by K O.
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Hi there
I have a Stanley No. 10 that I don’t know how to use. I’ve only sharpened the iron so far and it produces a lovely shaving, the next step is a good tidy up before learning how to use it. Does anyone have some tips or links they can share?
Thanks- This topic was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by K O.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Look in Paul’s blog for discussions of bullnose planes. I can’t remember if he did rabbet planes and shoulder planes at the same time, so you may need to search for all three. In one of those, he explained the basics of setting up a blade that is meant to cut into a corner at 90 degrees. You should be able to carry it over to the #10.
Whatever you do, *don’t* knock the corners off this blade like you would for a #4 or other bench plane and don’t camber it. I don’t own a #10, but assume it is the same as any other rabbet plane. Hope I’m not wrong.
Kerie,,
What Ed said,plus:
The blade should be slightly wider than the body of the plane.
When you cut a rebate, set the blade slightly proud of the plane body,inboard side. About the thickness of a business card or a little less– just enough to catch your fingernail.
If you set it flush with the side, you’ll move away from the shoulder with each stroke and think you’re doing something wrong.
It’s not you, it’s the blade position.
This is true for any rebate plane.
Hope this helps.
Best,
Craig19 July 2017 at 8:33 am #313852The tip for your carriage maker’s plane that the sharpened edge must be straight and flat is a good one. Don’t round or “dub” the corners like you might a finishing plane, for instance. All parts of the iron must project the same amount to get an even rebate.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by Larry Geib.
19 July 2017 at 9:18 am #313856The tip for your carriage maker’s plane that the sharpened edge must be straight and flat is a good one. Don’t round or “dub” the corners like you might a finishing plane, for instance. All parts of the iron must project the same amount to get an even rebate.
For some uses, a business card might be too much reveal, but it is important to have the blade be proud of the plane cheek on the side that makes the rebate shoulder. The other side doesn’t matter much.
As to a link to a good video on some rebate plane techniques, here’s a good video from Bill Schenher.
Using rebate planesThe last segment shows making a cross grain wide rebate with a plough and low angle plane and fence, but you should be able to use only the n°10 ( and the saw, of course)
- This reply was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by Larry Geib.
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