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Lectern

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  • #134998
    Misha
    Participant

    I am in the middle of a new project. It is a church lectern. There are a lot of pieces in it, and I am not quite sure how to make all the joints gapless. My decision is to make the tenons with shoulders on all four sides and make the mortises longer ( about 1-2 millimetres) than the tenons so that I could slide the pieces a bit.

    20160223_220208
    How it looks now.

    IMG
    What it should be.

    20160219_223342
    First joint.

    20160222_185930
    A bit of help.

    Misha

    Attachments:
    #135013
    Misha
    Participant

    Fixed photo

    Misha

    #135015
    Misha
    Participant

    Sorry another try.

    Misha

    #135017
    Misha
    Participant

    Sorry again. I can’t understand why the picture is always turned.

    Misha

    Attachments:
    #135058
    Wesley
    Participant

    That’s a lot of mortises. 🙂 the picture doesn’t show any gaps. Well done!

    How will you be fixing the top?

    Wesley

    #135059
    Misha
    Participant

    I am going to put another row of rails that will be an apron and fix the top with turn buttons to allow expansion and contraction.
    By now I have placed the vertical pieces between the two lower rails.

    Misha

    Attachments:
    #135061
    lowpolyjoe
    Participant

    Great project. Looking very nicely done 🙂

    #135084
    Je Lee
    Participant

    Very nice design and immaculate joinery!!

    I especially like the crosses in the upper part and the three part divisions in the lower part (very symbolistic!) where I find that the uneven division is a nice subtlety.

    After seeing your progresses I don’t doubt that it will turn out gapless!
    I am quite sure that you know the key would be to match and mark all the pieces and the positions of mortises together as I have learned from Mr. Paul Sellers (well I know the theories and try accordingly. But it is still a big challenge for me and I am speechless at the stunning accuracy Mr. Paul Sellers achieves every time in his videos).

    Accounting my personal inaccuracies I would allow me a little tolerance at the top tenon shoulders of the small vertical rails as small gaps here won’t be seen easily when you stand infront of it.

    P.S. I am only a little bit unsure about the size of the top as shown in your sketch. I wonder if I would prefer it a little bit bigger.

    I am eager to see the finished lectern!

    Je
    Frankfurt, Germany

    #135096
    Misha
    Participant

    Not sure it will be ready soon.
    Yesterday for example I made a mistake. I sawn on the wrong side and spoiled one piece. I had no spare one. So… I am on my way to the timber yard.
    But I will try not to delay.

    Misha

    #135158
    Misha
    Participant

    Crosses with half-lap joints are ready at last, the mortises are marked. I used a straight piece of wood as a temporary reference surface as the components are offset.

    Misha

    Attachments:
    #135177
    Misha
    Participant

    First frame is nearly done.

    Misha

    Attachments:
    #135322
    Misha
    Participant

    I don’t have a clear idea how to incorporate angled rails.

    Misha

    Attachments:
    #135324
    Ed
    Participant

    I wasn’t understanding the layout problem (spacers and so forth) until I saw your final photo (20160301_121833.jpg). Is the problem that you want to make sure that all of the mortises are in the same plane, but your reference surfaces aren’t all the same? What if you laid out the mortise on the member that is stepped in first (the piece under the bar clamp in the photo). Then, before you change your mortise gauge setting, use it to make a small nick on the end of that piece. Cut and assemble. Now, take a mortise gauge and set it to pick up those nicks, but referenced from new reference face on the other member. This would carry your layout “around the corner” while keeping it lined up. I think this would work, but it might also drive you insane and is contrary to wanting to lay things out all at once. Maybe the answer is to just “do the math” and work out what the settings should be, put them on a story stick, and go from there.

    #135331
    Misha
    Participant

    Thanks for your extended comment. I thought a lot and finally solved the problem by using a straight piece of wood as a temporary reference surface. You can see this bar in pic. 20160301_120933.jpg and 20160301_121428.jpg
    As you see I put it first along the stile and then across the stiles and above the rail. And as this reference surface stayed the same I didn’t have to change the mortise gauge setting at all. It turned out very simple and beautiful.
    Thanks again and excuse my English.

    Misha

    #135676
    Misha
    Participant

    Just another step.

    Misha

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