Record 010 Carriage Makers Rabbet Plane

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    I came across a brand new plane in a box, the sale was busy, so I bought it. Didn’t look too closely but after getting home I realized it was a rabbet plane. Research tells me it is a carriage makers plane. Just recently gotten into hand tool work, but I doubt I’ll ever use this for that purpose. It looks like overkill for putting rabbets in regular boards. I already have a Paragon 4, Stanley 5 and 5 1/2, and Record 044.

    Any thought on whether this is a useful addition to the toolbox? Or try to find a carriage maker out there who needs one 😉


    A no 10 is a collectible plane, it’s worth £70-£100 from what I see on eBay.

    It’s also a useful plane, I’d keep it!

    Austin Conner

    As with most things, I imagine it depends.

    As tenjin said above, I know they’re popular with collectors. I see them sell for $200+ near me.

    I can see it being very useful for large tenons and bread board ends.

    Larry Geib

    It’s a real find if it hasn’t been cracked and repaired by brazing or welding. It’s only a slight exaggeration to say 90% of them at tool swaps have seen a repair.
    These are fragile planes and don’t take well to being dropped or abused.
    Even repaired ones go for $100+ if they have a flat sole.


    Not many carriage-makers working these days………. A good plane, but as Larry Gelb said, a little bit delicate – they don’t bounce if you drop ’em.

    I had one some years ago that I used for defining the edges of a series of large, carved linen-fold panels that I was making. If it has my name on it, then it’s the one that I sold when that job came to an end!

    However, it’s a useful piece of kit if you are doing wide rebates……. The older wooden version of this type of plane was known as a ‘Badger’ plane. It’s blade was mounted at a skew and can hog a serous amount of wood on door frame rebates, which is what they were principally used for.

    If you are making wide rebates, go in first with your Record 044 and use it to define the rear wall of the rebate, then use the No: 10 to remove the waste.
    The really expensive version was the Stanley 10-1/4 which had a swiveling handle and knob to stop your fingers getting trapped…… they go for silly money.

    good luck!


    All good ideas! I honed the blade and it handles really well. Might keep it around as another smoother, for narrow boards anyway.

    Larry Geib

    If you hone the blade as a smoother it won’t function as well as a rebate plane.

    For that purpose, the blade needs to be honed dead flat with no easing of the corners like any rebate or filletster plane.

    That hing is a beauty. Good find.


    Thank you for that advice. Good thing I didn’t knock the corners off the blade. Anyway the price was right (75.00) and I’ll find some use for it.


    Good plane. Judging by the box, it dates to the later years of production – they were discontinued in the early ’90s when record were going through various ownership changes.
    Sadly the firm is now nowhere near the quality of the old Hampton days in terms of tool quality – in my opinion. They concentrate on site-based tools.

    As Larry Gelb says, don’t dub the corners – it’s not intended for smoothing though it will work well on board edges.

    The intended blade set-up on those planes was to hone and sharpen the blade dead straight across then hone and polish the back; next, in order to develop a pin sharp edge, (essential for accurate corners in rebates) the sides of new blades were honed flat at 90 degrees to the cutting edge ensuring pin-sharp corners. Thereafter these edges were just maintained to keep the corner crisp.
    It’s important not to overdo this part because, it is intended that the blade on rebate planes overhang the side of the plane body that is in contact with the rebate side – about 1/2 mm. If you only use it right-handed, just concentrate on the RH side of the blade – if left-handed reverse that and do the LH side. This tiny gap is necessary for clearance of the plane body. Sometimes in the old days, users would flatten the side as you would the sole in order to ensure a good contact with both surfaces of the work, the base and side of the rebate.

    Good luck

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