Tenon saw cuts to the right
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4 January 2019 at 9:58 pm #554265
I bought a tyzack tenon saw 10” rip cut, 15tpi.
It was dull and rusted. I sharpened it, set and polished the plate. It cuts well now but always to the right. I re-sharpened and set the teeth again (this time I swapped the orrrientation of the set ie the teeth set to the right moved to the left and teeth on the left got moved to the right). But it still drags to the right in the cut.
I’ve only sharpened a few saws before, I’m no expert.
Also I can cut straight with all my other hand saws.
The plate of the saw appears straight when offered to a straight edge.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.5 January 2019 at 5:57 pm #554276First off, changing the set from one side to the other risks work hardening the teeth and increases the chances you will break teeth off. It’s not a solution to a saw cutting to one side.
A saw will cut to one side either because the teeth on one side are longer, or somehow set more on that side. It could also be that if you filed all the teeth from one side, you have burrs on the side away from where you filed. This issue presents itself more often with small teeth. In rare cases, the hammer on the set is not square to the anvil. ( you didn’t mention if you used a set or hammer set) .
Here is what works for me.
The fix is pretty easy. Try “stoning” the sides of the teeth after you are done filing. Use a 600 grit stone, diamond plate, or even a diamond paddle and take ONE light swipe from the heel to the toe of the saw on each side to clean off the burrs. Then test the saw.
I do the single swipe every time I sharpen. I only set the teeth every few sharpenings as needed. A15 tpi saw will probably be overset by almost any saw set, even on the finest setting.If it stills pulls to one side, take a couple more swipes on the side the cut drifted towards to reduce the set slightly and even the teeth on that side. It’s better to use light strokes and test a couple times than to use heavy strokes.
Continue until the saw kerf is centered.
A longer explanation is at the end of this article:
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/how-to-sharpen-saw-blades/
The Village Carpenter has a nice blog post on stoning:
http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/2008/01/stoning-your-saw.html
Paul’s method of topping the teeth with a diamond paddle may serve to do the same thing by taking the burr off the top of the teeth.
5 January 2019 at 8:57 pm #554279Ok great!
Thanks for he advice and info.I’ll try exactly what you suggested and get back to you.
I use an eclipse no 77 type saw set.
Thanks!
6 January 2019 at 12:35 am #554280Good luck.
For an eclipse style saw set, you might want to check that it’s set up for small teeth.
Watch this video.
“Drags to the right…”
Do you mean you get a curved saw-cut?
Or twisted to the right as it progresses down?
Or does it cut a straight line, angled to the right?Perhaps try reducing the set on the aggressive side with Paul’s ‘Hammer in the vice’ technique. Gently tapping the teeth on that side, to reduce their set.
If you use Alan’s ‘Refining your Saw-set’ technique in future (washer behind Eclipse 77 anvil) you’ll get a finer set than No.12, straight from the Eclipse pliers.
7 January 2019 at 2:20 am #554293Thanks again guys.
I haven’t had a chance to try stoning the saw yet. I feel that’s the best bet.
I have modified the set to make it work for small teeth. And I did try reducing the set with the hammer in the vice trick to no avail.
By ‘drags to the right’ I mean a curved saw cut. The saw’s passage through the wood is clean and smooth.
Thanks guys I’ll get back ASAP with the results
9 January 2019 at 5:48 pm #554415Glad it worked.
I feel remiss in not mentioning that if you have a new saw and don’t want to risk scratching the shiny new plate, you can put a strip of painter’s blue tape 1/2” above the teeth and it won’t affect the stoning.
It’s not really necessary, but removes a little of the angst involved.
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