The Geneva Wall Clock
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- This topic has 68 replies, 12 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 9 months ago by Salko Safic.
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3 June 2014 at 11:32 am #57845
You apply it with a course rag or you can use a sponge just not the green one you don’t want to leave any colours on your timber. With the course rag you apply the filler in circular motion slightly overlapping each other much like you would when polishing a car. When the filler starts to turn a haze uasually within 5 mins or so you wipe it off with a clean rag across the grain then quick swipes along the grain. You should be left with a polished surface with a reflection if brought up to the light. You must leave it to dry for 24hrs before sanding or over coating. If you apply too much you will leave white streaks and it’s also a pain to sand even with this amount.
This is much like burnishing something I prefer over this filler but I thought I’d use it up before it goes off. Even using a polissier if I’ve spelt that correctly is a better option for burnishing because it compresses the grain quite a bit and there’s no mess nor drying time just sore muscles.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.3 June 2014 at 11:50 am #57850Last pic for the night here is what’s going to be the top half of the back of the door. These timber were flat till they came in the clamps they’ve been drying for an hour till I just couldn’t stomach looking at the cup the clamps created. Then came an idea why not place a timber on top and clamp from both ends and presto it flattened out. But whose to say the middle is flat I’m hoping it is becasue I stuffed up I went against my own rule and ticknessed it to final thickness. So in the end it might lose another 2mm which I’m not looking forward to that but a stuff up is a stuff up and usually occurs when your racing against time. I’ve been at it all day and I was very tired but needed to finish this so I rushed and made a mistake. My only advise is never rush no matter what and leave it if your nackered. So what if your a day or so behind it’s no the end of the world.
All in all there is quite a lot prep work before you do any kind of joinery but they are all equally important as each other. There is no aspect in woodworking where you can slacken off or skip a step. This is a work of art regardless what your making be it a stool, clock or dining table, be pedantic, take your time, think it through and don’t rush. When it’s finally all over look at it and ask yourself is there anything I could of done to have made it better. I’m sure you will say yes. Then enjoy your work marvel at it pat yourself on the back and do it all over again.
In the next pics I won’t be writing as much I’ll just basically post the progress pics. It’s 9pm and I haven’t even take a shower yet and my day starts at 5am. Come Thursday, Friday and Saturday I will be at my second job so there won’t be any porgress pic during those days. Yes I know I’m insane doing 2 jobs but times are tough and I need them both just to make ends meet.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.3 June 2014 at 11:51 am #57853Love what you are doing Salko.
I’m learning some stuff as well. 😉
Not seen that filler before what is it made of?3 June 2014 at 12:11 pm #57855I would also like to add not everything is done entirely by hand, because some things are just not practical to do so and especially if your trying to make a buck out of woodwork. The resawing I did was on a bandsaw and the thicknessing was done on my thicknesser but having said all that you must however plane it flat by hand unless you have a jointer wide enough before it goes in the planer and then still after it comes of the machine you must plane it again by hand. Yes I have machinery but in all honesty I rarely use them for the heavier stuff like resawing and thicknessing I will revert to machines but crosscutting and ripping, joinery etc I will do it all by hand even though I have a perfectly good functioning table saw I still prefer to do those by hand. I have drills but I prefer my brace and egg beater only for precision drill and cutting out for an insert will I resort to my pedesatl drill. Mouldings I will use my moulding planes but if I have to because I have no choice I will use my router table. It’s all about practicality I pride myself that I’m able to do it by hand and it’s a skill I don’t want to lose but when you must always use logic.
If I have to thickness small lumber naturally I will pull out my scrub plane for me it’s quicker to do that than set everything up just to do one simple operation. So take this into consideration when your working if you want to do everything entirely by hand then go for it but if your charging an hourly rate like I am it’s only fair to the customer that you do the tedious time consuming work like thicknessing by machine.
4 June 2014 at 12:39 am #57868I’m enjoying following your process. The timber looks fantastic as does the layout. Really looking forward to watching the clock come to life. Thanks so much for sharing.
4 June 2014 at 12:56 am #57870Thanks very much I’m humbled by your words hopefully we will all learn something in the process for I am a student just like you and will continue to be so till I meet my maker.
4 June 2014 at 2:46 am #57873Measure twice cut once is the cure for baldness.
Take a look at these shavings it’s aamazing you can’t get full shavings from this timber. I’ve never worked with this type before the guy at the lumber yard called it Cambria well I’ve never heard of it and neither has anyone else so I google it and nothing. The closest I’ve come to is Black Walnut but is it.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.4 June 2014 at 3:12 am #57878I’m relly starting to think the rosewood was a bad choice I really don’t like the way it’s turned out I definitely should of gone with fijian mahogany. What choice do I have now but continue and hope for the best
4 June 2014 at 5:26 am #57879Well my biggest fear happened a piece snapped off in the cut fortunately it’s not a regular occurance and I can’t rightly say how it happened but it wasn’t cause by me, I blame it on the ginger bread man. Hopefully it will glue well if not I will have to re cut it. As the filler is drying I thought I’d start on the other pieces.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.4 June 2014 at 7:29 am #57883I’m will call it a day before I do I want to share a thought. Every piece of lumber you work with behaves differently, planes differently, some are harder to cut, finish etc. Never assume that things will always go your way and especially it’s a heart breaker when you spend your hard earned money and all the odds stack up against you. Sometimes what you think will look good may not look good at all that’s what I’m thinking about the Rosewood but what can one do it’s done you bought it, you cut it, you planed it’s not like you can take it back but in the end it may just work out and I”m hopeful it does.
All this is a learning experience and without the ups and downs how will one ever learn anything.
I didn’t achieve alot today the intricacy and details are very time consuming and I have to go slower than usual so as not to risk snapping anymore pieces.
I still haven’t tried the mahogany (Fijian) they say it’s not a true Mahogany but I’m hoping it’s easy to work with. So far my favourite timbers out of all the ones I have worked with is Hoop Pine and this black Walnut I’m suspecting the fijian mahogany will be added to that list. This hoop pine isn’t like radiata but alot better in it’s class. I guess the shakers were onto to something when they chose Pine as their primary choice of timbers. Just maybe it had nothing to do with humbleness but more with ease of use.
Take care guys tomorrow I will do some more work but only half a day as I have night shift for the next three days.
4 June 2014 at 11:35 am #57890Salko this is impressive stuff loving it.
Totally agree with what you said no to woods the same. All have a sense and feel of there own. You have to sometimes caress or brut your way through. You alt to see me at a bench talking out loud about grain direction and other things with a bit of swearing chucked in for my impatients. It’s like I know something going to happen but I still bully through. I have got to slow myself down.
Keep up you excellent work Salko. 😉4 June 2014 at 10:23 pm #57923The rosewood is the most difficult grain to read for me it’s just pure guess work, I went to plane the top back door they are edge glued and no matter from which direction I planed I went against the grain and got tear out. I wouldn’t of minded if it was on the ends I have to rip them down anyway but in the middle why oh Lord why arrgghh!
10 June 2014 at 2:16 am #58178Remember that beautiful black walnut I’m using well it isn’t walnut after all but white ash heated to insane temperatures and left to cool. The term Cambria they used is only a marketing term that doesn’t exist in any wood encyclopedia and I basically had to force it out of the guy. He was extremely reluctant to inform me that this is white ash. Anyway another timber bites the dust it’s being deleted no longer imported because of lack of interest. At $42.95 a metre for 150mmx31mm can you blame anyone for not being interested and this is at trade price.
16 June 2014 at 7:32 am #58560First day back on the clock again since my return from my seond job, today has been a painstaking day but I finally got the base done. The pieces are starting to pile up and there’s still alot more to be cut out. That burnt white ash hasn’t budged it’s still perfectly flat and I’m not doing anything to it to keep it that way. I’m sure when they fried it the moisture level is really low but hey I ain’t complaining, it’s flat and it’s not brittle either.
Anyway back to work
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