The Geneva Wall Clock
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16 June 2014 at 7:36 pm #58571
Very impressive Salko, are the shapes as sawn or do you have to finish them after sawing if so how do you do it?
16 June 2014 at 8:40 pm #58572Thanks for the question David the base is around 1200mm long so it’s too big to fit on a sroll saw table. I try and do most of it on the scroll saw but it really is a difficult operation so one has to resort in using a fretsaw. Using the fretsaw will not leave you a smooth edge as like the scroll saw will which will eliminate 99% of smoothing afterwards despite all the advertisements claiming they do even though I am using the same blade. Rasps, card scraper and finally sanding get’s those edges smooth. This is slow and tedious that requires alot of patience and precision, yet at the same time it’s also relaxing.
18 June 2014 at 5:26 am #58613I have a question for anyone that knows the answer too I hope someone is going to read it, it’s kind of hard to know when I suspect that not many if at all but two are following my post but here goes anyway.
I’m making my own wooden pendulum I am going to recess a small 1mm recess to allow the brass pendulum rod to snuggly fit in. Now since this is my first time I’m doing it this way in fact I’ve never made this particular clock before I know I am going to use two screws at the back but I also want to glue it as well so should epoxy it in on will yellow/white which ever work just as well.
18 June 2014 at 8:44 am #58615Hi Salko, What purpose does the Brass pendulum serve is it just for the weight or is it seen, if the wooden pendulum is covering it and the brass pendulum is at that back could you not use screws through the back of the brass into the wooden pendulum?
18 June 2014 at 9:39 am #58617Thanks David for your post yes it will go in the back and will not be seen, the brass rod is only there because of those two hooks so yes I will screw them in and maybe it won’t need glue to hold it in place securely. I was thinking the screws aren’t massive but tiny jewelry screws would it have the holding power but when I think about it I have used them countless of times on doors for mantle clocks so I think I should be right without glue after all. as usual I panic for nothing.
19 June 2014 at 1:23 pm #58654I’m almost finished cutting out all the pieces considering how long it takes this is one of the easiest so far, some clocks I’ve done contains over 100 pieces but the results are just oustanding and well worth the patience. After this project is completed there are many others to be done but I would really like to take the time in completing these online masterclasses projects one in particular that caught my eye is the wood cane series. I can see implementing this as a column in my clocks plus my dad would appreciate having such a beautiful cane.
24 June 2014 at 6:41 am #58768Today I stumbled upon something new well it’s new to me I’m sure if I thought of it someone out there has probably come up with it long before me.
This rosewood has reversing grain much like the mahogany Paul faced with during the tool box lessons. My primamry bevels were 25° so I changed it to 30° but instead of going establishing the entire primary bevel to 30° I only regrined it about 1/8″. I did that because it takes so long to establish a new angle on the water stones and I thought well why shoudl I, it’s not like I need the whole thing beveled but just enough to create a secondary bevel of 2°, lastly I added a small back bevel on the back of the blade I think saw Paul do this in one of his videos. So did I do right? Is it necessary to go all the way when establishing a new angle persoanlly I don’t see the point in it but now I have 3 bevels the 25,30 and 32 the 25 will never be used and the more I sharpen it the more the 30° will slowly wipe out the 25.
Btw the results were excellent it virtually eliminiated all the tearout, I had very minimal use of my cabinet scraper.
25 June 2014 at 12:14 pm #58810Progress has been unbelievably slow I’ve never taken so long to finish off one clock, I feel like I’ve been jinksed with it. The white ash is so fragile because of the extreme heat it’s undergone, a piece fell on the floor and just shattered like glass and that’s 2 hours work down the drain. I would of been better off using hoop pine and stained it black, next time I will.
It certainly has been a long day I’ve been up since 5 this morning and it’s 9pm and decided to call it a day. I just had to put in the extra to get some work done, the good news is I’m almost done. I only have a few more pieces to cut out and then cut the dovetails out. This will be a single dovetail as the pieces are only 3″ (76mm) wide.
Once all the components are cut out I will oil it then put it together and then finally add some protection it. I’m not really sure whether or not I will use shellac, sometimes using shellac over oiled timber you get a plasticy look. I will try it out on a sample piece first.
I will have some pics for you once with it’s oiled and then in the assembly stage. I really would like some feedback from you guys, your thoughts, ideas whatever.
Anyway tomorrow is my last day to get ahead as I have night shift from 11pm for the next 3 days.
If I were asked to make another of the same clock I reckon I would decline the order. For whatever reason I can’t say it’s been enjoyable, I’m so nervous on how it’s all going to turn out it’s gut wrenching. I think I just may have met my match.
25 June 2014 at 7:38 pm #58832Salko it sounds like a nerve racking project, far beyond anything I would tackle. I look forward to seeing the finished photos, could you not make clocks as a full time occupation or is there not the demand
25 June 2014 at 10:42 pm #58835Good question David, 15 years ago they sold like hot cakes but today not so. I used to work upto 18hrs a day just to finish one clock. It’s very time consuming work so this is the main reason why it’s not possible to do it full time. Even if someone pledged to buy a clock a week from you its impossible to get it finished within a week.
I really do enjoy making them you have to love it to justify the hours but you can’t survive on them without additional income.
26 June 2014 at 1:39 am #58843Hello Salko,
I’m thinking about building a simple clock with pendulum movement, but I have no experience with clocks. Do you have any suggestion for the case and movement? It seems you know a lot about clocks.
Of course, there is the clock project by Paul Sellers, but I feel that clock, being so tall, misses a pendulum, that is, it seems such a tall case for just a simple round clock face.
Thanks.26 June 2014 at 3:28 am #58845Hello Ricardo thanks for the question I think Paul’s clock is a great clock to start off with and it’s the right size as well, I believe off hand it’s between 500 or 600mm tall. From this clock you can add many different variations to it or just keep it simple with top and bottom bases only.
You can add a pendulum quite simply if you like cutting out a portion of the raised panel to expose the pendulum. You could still have a raised panel but you would have to keep the width of the angles small but I would tend not to have a raised panel at all in this case. The cut out for the pendulum I would choose a nice middle eastern design, google some pics of mosque doors, windows or even other antique clocks and go from there.
On Paul’s clock I would choose a brass bob and swing, for the dial plate either fancy arabic or roman numerals which ever takes your fancy both look nice but both will not look great on every clock. Now for the bezel choose brass as well not plastic gold, if you live close to the sea then the brass will rust unless you wipe it with silicon spray like G15 every now and then. The gold plastic really diminishes the value and look of the clock it makes it look cheap so try and stay away from that.
For the lens use real glass don’t get tricked with new marketing terms like mineral glass lens, use real glass not plastic because that’s what mineral glass lens is they it so thin that it resembles glass. Many dealers will try and convince you it is real glass but I can assure you they are only importers and have no idea of what they’re talking about. You can anyway clearly see the difference between fake and real. Again this is for quaality and appearances so use the best. Besides they are both priced the same ironically.
Lastly in this particular clock I would defintely go for a battery powered movement, your choice again for chime or no chime. Chimes can be annoying for some people while others love them. Also make sure it’s a Takane or Seiko. Both are a Japanese exept Takane is made in the USA and Seiko in Japan, they are high quality and last for many years. Just how long you may think I sold two clocks 15 years ago to my neighbour both with a takane chimed and non chimed pendulum movement. He passed away but the movements didn’t those clock were inherited by their grand kids and one of them got passed down back to us it’s my wife’s favourite and is still keeping perfect time as the day I installed it, just remember to change the battery every year or two. There are many different shaft lengths so make sure you work out the thickness of the panel only that you are going to use then buy your movement. Get all your clock parts sorted out first before you begin otherwise you can end up in strife where your shaft is not long enough or your dial plate, bezel and glass are either too big or too small. The pendulum stick itself is easy to snap to length they all come in one size.
Mechanical movements are expensive and I would prefer them over battery any day of the week but they are not equal to the accuracy of the battery powered movement. Mechanical rely on balance and the magnets in the earth can throw them out but we are only talking about a minute or two at the most. If you had two mechanical clocks one upstairs and one downstairs in a house both will read different times so the most accurate is a battery movement but no battery movement can ever replace the beauty and the tick tock of a mechanical but yes they are expensive.
German made mechanicals are the best in the world then you have the cheap look a like from China, I have never tried the cheap ones and they may last for a certain time I really don’t know but for quality and endurance that will out live you, your kids and so forth go for German made.
I hope all of this helps if you need help just ask.
26 June 2014 at 6:00 pm #58881Hello Salko,
Thank you very much for your explanation.
I have an old wall clock from my grand father that was recently fixed and works perfectly. I believe it is about 100 years old and the movement maker is Junghans I think. It has a pendulum that may be adjusted at the bottom to correct any leading or lagging so it can be quite accurate. It is encased in a black wooden case, with a glass front that opens to allow winding and adjustments. It rings the bell on the whole and half hours.
Paul’s clock is quite nice and I’ll work on your suggestion to make an opening at the front, with glass behind it. But I’d better buy the movement first because all the main dimensions depend on its size.
If you may suggest some sites that sell movements and parts, both electronic and mechanical, it will be great because I don’t know any place to buy clocks.
Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Ricardo27 June 2014 at 4:33 am #58914There are many on the net I usually have go to various suppliers because not one has everything I need but here is a link to one here in Australia. http://www.letsmaketime.com.au/
I like the idea of using glass it will suit that clock very much, post some pics of your work in progress.as well.
Good Luck!
9 July 2014 at 4:40 am #59220Here is some pics I took today as I just finished the door, fortunately for me I had a rush of small orders which placed the Geneva on the back burner for the last week. I’ve taken a month of my other job just to complete these orders, luckily the Geneva customer is understanding to hold for a wee bit longer.
Everything is cut and ready for assembly all I have to do now is some sanding before putting it together. I’ll keep you updated as I progress. I also did a sample piece with the finish applied, I used only oil with a mixture of beeswax in it and it turned quite lovely. Any other additional application would be just overkill as I feel it’s perfect as is. I’ll post it in the next post.
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