Tool Request
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- This topic has 60 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 4 months ago by Sven-Olof Jansson.
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I would like to buy a Veritas tenon saw for myself (recently bought a Veritas Dovetail saw) but when I look at the one on Axminster, they seem quite long at 415mm (almost 16″). They also look to have a deeper blade (I mean from top to bottom, not along its longest dimension).
http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-tenon-saws-ax935048
Is the above a tenon saw, it says so, so it must be, but I thought tenon saws were smaller, around 12″ to 14″. At least that’s what I’m more familiar with.
Also, there are rip cut (9TPI) and a cross-cut (12 TPI) tenon saw versions. I want to use the saw prior to cutting dovetails so am I right in thinking I should get the cross-cut version?
Finally, this guy at 1m 48s calls the saw in his hands, a carcass saw, which is more like what I think the size of a tenon saw is (around 12″ in length).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FC2s0D7M-s4
But on the Axminster website, they say the carcass saw is over 16″ long:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-crosscut-carcass-saw-950978
I’m confused.
13 December 2019 at 2:13 pm #636063Hej Mark,
Some 10 years ago I was recommended to buy long versions of backsaws. At the time point I didn’t take the advice, because I didn’t understand why. Thanks to woodworking videos I learnt that it’s actually easier to keep a square and true cut with a longer blade.
Tenon saws appear to be around 16″, I think. Please see attached link to various of these saws. https://www.classichandtools.com/acatalog/Tenon-Saws.html
I’m quite happy with my Veritas tenon saws. The rake angle of 75° is perhaps not optimal for an aggressive cut, but I only noticed it when using the rip version for sawing 60 mm deep tenons in 95 mm square spruce. Otherwise, I’m happy with them. The London Woodworking Forum in October, saw me leaving with a LN version. Admittedly, a more pleasant handle does perhaps not justify the difference in price.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Hi Sven, thanks for replying.
So to clarify, I want a saw that is used primarily for cutting tenons and that’s the saw in the link below?
http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-tenon-saws-ax935048
Should I buy rip (9 TPI) or cut (12 TPI)?
Mark,
I do almost everything with a 14″, 12 TPI tenon saw filed rip. I cut dovetails with it and, when I saw tenons, them, too. If it isn’t too late, I’d hold off on the rip saw and buy just the cross cut. Play with it a little, and then file it rip. The 9 tpi saw is just a little too coarse to be a do-everything saw, but 12 tpi is perfectly good. It is fine enough to be both cross-cut (with a knife line) and and rip. It is coarse enough to be okay to learn sharpening on, although your very first filing would be best on something like a 5 to 7 point saw. Still, buy the right file along with the saw.
Once tuned, you’ll be able to do dovetails, tenons, and wood prep. I almost wish it were a couple inches shorter, but the Veritas saws tend to be lighter in weight because of the carbon spine, so I think it will be fine. So, I’d start with that. Take the money you saved on the other saw and buy one year’s worth of Masterclasses, since I have the impression that you don’t subscribe to the videos. This will be the best tradeoff you’ve ever made, I promise.
By the way, I’ve come to believe that I actually need a long saw. I have long arms and want to have a long stroke. I tend to pull little dinky dovetail saws out of the work on the draw stroke and then stab the work with them. To me, what matters is how fine the set is more than anything else and I could probably even live with a heavier set as long as the cut was straight and not jagged.
You’ll like the veritas saw.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Ed.
Hi Ed, thank you for that reply, very insightful.
I think your idea of buying the tenon cross-cut saw and modifying it for a rip cut is a great idea. I’ve not yet bought the saws yet so I will do just that. The only reservation I have is how that protruding toe will feel when using the saw. I’ll get used to it no doubt.
You are correct in that I don’t subscribe to the online classes but I’ve been seriously considering doing so (for the tool cabinet and table plans). I very probably will at some point.
Thanks again!
13 December 2019 at 8:44 pm #636193Mark 68.
The common woodworking classes are cree and for a starting out feller they get you started in the right direction
Basic stuff and starter projects to hone your skills and all kinds of info on buying and serviceing your tools.Yes, I’ve got a ton of Paul’s videos and they are brilliant. It’s like being an apprentice without the one on one. Does the subscription come with any added communications, like the ability to email questions direct? Probably not as that would mean a heavy workload for whoever was on the receiving end of them.
14 December 2019 at 1:29 am #636273Sign up and there is a huge data base of knowledge. You can ask questions and the great izzy will ask paul and get back to you quickley
It is commonwoodworking.com. There are exercises and recommendations on everything you can come up with . It is well laid out ,simple to understand , and extremely detailed it its presentation. I dont think after reading it You will have as many questions as you think you would. Lots of pictures ,videos,discussion.
Tou can look it over even without registering.14 December 2019 at 1:55 pm #636393It seems your name and password for “masterclasses” gives you also access to “common woodworking”.
I’ve made my own dovetail marker but being unsure of its accuracy, I am thinking of buying one, so something like this:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/veritas-dovetail-saddle-markers-ax788057
Or this (the first ‘Richard Kell’ product):
http://www.fine-tools.com/dovetailmarker.html
Do you use one that you’ve purchased, is there one you would recommend?
18 December 2019 at 10:41 am #637667What do you mean by ‘you are unsure of it’s accuracy’? Have you tried some dovetails with it?
I made my guides from some aluminium L profile, stuck a short length to either side of a piece of wood, set up a jig to cut at an angle (probably somewhere around 1:7), cut through the whole lot, making sure to keep the cut square, ended up with a pair of left hand and right hand saddle gauges. If you box clever, you can glue them back to back so you only have one gauge.[attachment file=”637668″]
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You must be logged in to view attached files.That’s a neat idea. However, I don’t have any aluminium and seeing as the marker is only £10, I thought I’d get that.
By ‘not accurate’, I mean I’m still very new to woodworking. I’ve only made a bench hook, sawhorses, and the workbench, so I’ve not had that much experience with keeping things square, flat, parallel, that sort of thing.
It’s something I am mindful of and working on.
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