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Water and heat resistant wood glue?

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Previous Back to: Woodworking Methods and Techniques6 Replies

Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / Woodworking Methods and Techniques / Water and heat resistant wood glue?

  • This topic has 6 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 11 months ago by Benoît Van Noten.
  • Author
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  • Jukka Huuskonen
    8 February 2020 at 4:47 pm #648197

    I’m planning to make a water bucket for sauna (Finnish hot room). We usually store the water bucket in sauna, where it may get easily 70-80°C where the bucket will be.

    Is there any wood glue that can withstand that heat (and preferably a bit higher) and also water?

    Settings
    deanbecker
    8 February 2020 at 6:41 pm #648205

    If you make the joints tight the water will swell the bucket and you won’t need glue. Especially if there is a band or two around it.

    Settings
    Larry Geib
    9 February 2020 at 5:38 am #648254

    An old cooper’s trick in making buckets is to put flax (linseed) meal in the joints during assembly.

    ( about 12:00 minutes in )

    • This reply was modified 2 years, 11 months ago by Larry Geib.
    Settings
    YrHenSaer
    9 February 2020 at 2:38 pm #648297

    Excellent bit of film, Larry – well done for finding that one.

    Settings
    Benoît Van Noten
    10 February 2020 at 10:59 am #648414

    Although not a bucket, the principle shown in following link is interesting:
    https://www.core77.com/posts/69981/How-to-Make-a-Watertight-Wood-Joint-Without-Using-Glue-or-Sealants

    Settings
    YrHenSaer
    10 February 2020 at 11:23 am #648419

    Fank Klausz’s expanding strip in the bottom of the water-box reminds me of a technique I saw demonstrated in a museum in Japan many years ago.

    Netsuke and other carvers wished to make protruding dimples on the backs of carved toads.
    They carved the toad shape first; next, marked the positions of the dimples on the toad’s skin. The centres of each were punched with a device like a nail-punch that depressed the wood a couple of millimetres. The whole area was then shaved down to the level of the depressions and heated with damp cloths and hot irons. The depressions expanded back to their original shapes.

    The result, after sanding and some detail carving, were some very convincing toads – warts and all.

    Settings
    Benoît Van Noten
    10 February 2020 at 11:27 am #648420

    pounding the board edges is also used in boat-building.
    see:
    http://blog.douglasbrooksboatbuilding.com/2015/05/japanese-joinery.html

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