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15 July 2019 at 8:46 am #590171
Cracking job, I wish my first dovetails looked as good as that!
All your mortice and tenons look spot on. Well done.
Cheers David26 August 2018 at 5:22 pm #550586Have you checked the sides of the plane to the sole, I had a similar problem and eventually found I had dinged the side of the plane on something, a few swipes with a file at 45′ solved the problem.
Cheers David
17 March 2018 at 5:52 pm #499071I use to suffer badly with cuts going off line when sawing. Then I watched RenaissanceWW on YouTube who did quite a good video on sawing technique.
His advice, and it certainly worked for me. Was to put your left foot forward (Iām right handed) of you right, rather than being square on to your wood. This allows your body to twist slightly which allows your elbow to run forwards and backwards like a piston, rather than swinging left and right in an arc.
Cheers David
- This reply was modified 6 years, 1 month ago by David Allison.
17 November 2017 at 9:44 pm #372098A couple of ideas that that comes to mind that may or may not help:-
How about using a softer piece of wood i.e. using pine if its oak. as a sacrifice piece that goes over the dovetails and under the clamps. When clamp pressure is applied any nubs of the Dovetails protruding will squash into the pine but still allow the pressure of the clamps to close the joint up tight .
The second thought would be to cut notches out of a sacrifice piece that matches the dovetails were you want to add pressure from the clamps but allow the nubs from the other piece of wood to push through. You could hold them in position with a bit of masking tape while applying the clamps.
Cheers David
17 November 2017 at 9:34 pm #372065That looks like a good job with the hand planes.
I find it amazing how I now use machines to get close and hand tools to finish and get spot on. For some reason I keep thinking it really should be the other way round.
17 November 2017 at 9:01 pm #371978Could you get a piece of scrap to fit the top of your ‘saw horse’ (It might stop you drinking it š ) Then when your getting to the end of the board you can overhang the board off the crate sideways i.e. you keep sawing alongside the crate with it half on half off the crate, hopefully you will have enough room to get a knee or a hand on the wood and continue the cut.
Cheers David
25 May 2017 at 8:23 am #312278Hi Kamikazekrieger.
The more I think about it, a rabbet would be ideal. When the door are shut I’m hoping the tool cabinet will have a look of a piece of furniture about it. So I would like a clean looking frame and panel doors. As I am guessing there will be quite a bit a weight from the door, the rabbet will give me the extra strength and support I am after.
I’ve started looking up the use of wooden nails, and really like the look of them, I will certainly keep them in mind and see if I can use them.
Thank you very much for your advise, much appreciated.
Cheers David
24 May 2017 at 9:56 pm #312268Hi kamikazekrieger, thanks for your suggestions.
I think dovetailing 5 boards together is way beyond my skill level hehe, I’m pushing my luck trying to get the 4 sides dovetailed!
Thanks for the suggestion of the rabbet, sometimes I totally miss the blooming obvious. If I rabbet the sides and the door that will gives the extra support/glue surface I am wanting. Perfect.
Thanks again.
Cheers David24 May 2017 at 9:43 pm #312266I done a very quick sketchup (Read Rubbish) of what I am trying to achieve, which is probably a lot better than my ramblings of trying to explain it! It may be that just gluing one to the other will do.
I first thought of using dowels to help support the weight, then started wondering if there was a traditional joint that I’m not thinking of.
Cheers David
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.24 May 2017 at 8:18 pm #312264Hi Ed,
Sorry, I didn’t make myself clear, I knew I wouldn’t!!!
I was talking about joining the frame and panel door (as you say made with mortice and tenons) to the frame/side piece, I wonder if there is a joint I could use that I’ve not thought of.
Cheers David
22 November 2016 at 9:32 am #142590Hi Dieter,
You probably know how to set up your bandsaw up, but if its any use I found this video which helped me a lot when I first started out.
I like the quote in the signature, it was either that one or this one…Any man who can drive safely while kissing a pretty girl is simply not giving the kiss the attention it deserves. Einstein didn’t half come out with some great quotes.
Good luck
David21 November 2016 at 9:33 pm #142585Hi Dieter,
I found that the quality of the blade is really important, my first bandsaw came with record blades and I really couldn’t get on with it, I found a company called tuff Saws and the transformation was amazing, the bandsaw started behaving, and I got great results.
In general I would say a wider blade will help cut straighter, especially if you are re-sawing really thick stock, it will help stop the blade wondering in the cut. Though a good quality thin blade will perform well at most tasks.
I would be tempted to look at a 1/2″ 3tpi blade which you’ll be able re-saw, dimension and cut curves to around 2 1/2″ radius. It will probably leave a rough finish but easily cleaned up with a plane. If you want a better finish off the saw, look at a higher tpi blade maybe a 6-10tpi. I have a 1″ 3tpi blade on my machine and rarely change it unless I need to cut curves.
Here is a link that answers some of your questions and I find interesting reading.
http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=13
Cheers David
- This reply was modified 7 years, 5 months ago by David Allison.
21 September 2016 at 9:40 pm #140563I’m no expert and do assume that I may be talking a load of rubbish:
With regard to your planes not being 90′ could you adjust the lateral lever and make your blade skewed in relation to the sole to make it 90′ to the shooting board?
I supposed on a very long board there no reason you couldn’t use 3 or 4 winding sticks to get an overall view of multiple twists that may exist.
I’ve only done small boards by hand and do check myself with a long ruler along its length and along the diagonals, I’m sure with experience you will become able to do this by eye, but I’m far from that. Would a long spirit level help you at all.
Regards
David15 August 2016 at 1:44 pm #139369Hi Darren,
I’m near Hungerford and use Tyler hardwoods http://www.tylerhardwoods.com who are a few miles outside of Hungerford on the road towards Salisbury. They are a family run business, and quite happy dealing with the likes of me, who only go there for a couple of boards at a time. They have all sorts of hardwoods.
If your after prepared oak, there is also Vastern’s just outside of Wootton Bassett.
Cheers
David -
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