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24 September 2014 at 9:04 pm #118458
Andrew
My bench is 2 3/4″ or (70mm) thick and if I had to do it over again I would go for a little thicker top. I would try to have the final thickness around 3 1/2″ or 90. So if it was me I would go with the 90mm X 45mm. Best of luck
22 September 2014 at 6:30 pm #103974Ben
The first English style workbench (you can look at the bench on lumberjocks just type in Nicholson workbench)I built was built as you describe with two 2X10X12′ boards cut down to six feet the glued together to get a slab that was about 2 3/4″ thick. Have I understood you correctly on that? If I have then that method worked okay, it was simple and very fast. I was able to mark out where I wanted dogholes before I glued it together and put a drywall screw everywhere that I wanted to drill a 3/4″ doghole later that really helped with glue up. And since I drill out here the dogholes were at anyways I didn’t have any screw holes in the finished bench. However the problem I had was the aprons weren’t glued to the top slab as Paul Sellers does on his bench. Over time a small ledge formed it was very annoying. I think you would have some cross grain gluing problems since wood expands across it’s width the apron grain is oriented vertically and the double slab is oriented horizontally. But when you rip a 2×12 in three or four pieces and put it on it’s end the grain is oriented vertically just like your apron is and so doing it that way you no longer have a cross grain problem. I hope this helps you but I am not telling how to do it. One way is fast and easy doesn’t require a lot of clamps, but has the cross grain conflict. And the other way takes more time and clamps but does not have the cross grain problem. Best of luck.
29 January 2014 at 5:41 pm #26827Jason
I built an English style workbench very similar to Paul’s design (with some changes) I went with a six foot bench and the length is perfect. I have been really pleased with that length so I don’t think you need an 8 foot bench if space is an issue. However I don’t see anything wrong with going longer. The standard Nicholson bench was generally 10-12 feet long with a top less than 2 inches thick. Granted they put in cross stringer but it was still very efficient. Bowing is just not a problem with a 2×12 apron think of a floor joist on a house it can span 15 feet easy and it holds up your entire house. The same engineering principles also are what make the workbench so stout.
11 December 2013 at 3:32 pm #23640David
Normally I just keep my mouth shut but I thought I would offer my experience on some of the planes you mentioned. First I have owned both the ECE Scrub Plane and Primus smoothing plane. I love the scrub plane I call it mighty mouse it just hogs of material all day long with no problems. The Primus plane was a different story however I felt that the plane was too light and skipped over the work so eventually I got rid of it. It did glide along the wood like you wouldn’t believe.
To your question of new planes. For my money (if money wasn’t a limiting factor)I would buy Lie Nielsen’s. I would go with the following (3) Planes: 4 1/2 & 5 1/2 & 7. That way the blades all match and you swap out irons if you need to also you could get a different angle frog and make that work however you need to. Whenever I used the Lie Nielsen’s planes you can just feel the quality.
However I use old Stanley for just about everything. I would absolutely use a old inexpensive plane for the rough stock work (scrub, jack) you just don’t need to spend a couple hundred bucks for a rough coarse plane. Okay best of luck to you hope this helps
10 October 2013 at 4:47 pm #19819I do a couple of things with them
1.) Sheet composting or lasagna gardening right in my garden. No need to throw them away and get new mulch or compost later just do it right on site. Saves time money and gas.
2.) Mulch for raspberries makes the soil slightly acidic the raspberries seem to really like that.
3.) Can be used as bedding for red wiggler worms if doing vermicomposting.
4.) I also use it as insulating material in a my Warre beehives top quilt.Alright hope that helps give someone some ideas.
23 May 2013 at 3:45 pm #12423Take this with a grain of salt since I just finished my workbench a couple of weeks ago you can see it on the workbench progress link. I find that having a wagon vise as been the best thing that I have ever done. While it is true that a traditional tail vise will sag when open I have not found that to be the case with the wagon vise and I can’t tell how refreshing it is to give the wheel a spin and plane away without having to worry about the board moving fast simple efficient. Richard Maguire makes a nice wagon vise but it is expensive along with benchcrafted. I elected to make mine from scratch and it works amazing well for being home made. Well I hope this helped you a little good luck. Let me know if you want more details or pictures if that would be of use.
22 May 2013 at 6:01 pm #12345I am pumped about the tool chest being next can’t wait to build that.
For small projects here are a couple ideas.
1. Paul’s Mallet that he made on his blog
2. Marking gauge
3. Cutting Board
4. Chess Board with pieces
5. Picture Frame13 May 2013 at 5:55 pm #11998Looks fantastic Mark great job. Your dovetails are head and shoulders above mine so show them off with pride. Love the contrasting wood wonderful touch showing that it is handcrafted
Brett
13 May 2013 at 5:04 am #11954I just finished my workbench I had to modify the design to acommadate my workshop. My space is almost the same size of Paul’s workbench (39″ X 108″) So I added a tail vise to help make it easier to work in my space. Hope someone finds this interesting and useful. Thanks for looking
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You must be logged in to view attached files.7 March 2013 at 5:45 am #8929Well I thought I would post my progress on my Nicholson/Paul Sellers workbench version 2.0 I have one right now that I wanted to make some design changes to the first one. I have the base completed with bottom stretchers that attach using “bed bolts” at least that is what I call them. The legs have holes drilled to use with the gramercy holdfasts. And the legs are notch to form a half dovetail with the dado housing joint as well. The dovetail joint is historically accurate and I think it looks really cool so hopefully I can pull it off. Alright well thanks for looking
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You must be logged in to view attached files.15 January 2013 at 3:43 pm #6554@ Stephen Follis
I have 3 planes with corrugated bottoms (2) Stanley #5 and a Stanley #6. In all honestly I cannont recommend that you buy one this is just my opinion but I think you would be better served with regular flat bottom plane. The diffuculty for me arise when I am trying to edge joint a board I feel like the plane rocks a little bit with you slide over onto another corrugation on the bottom of the plane. That and trying to raise a panel is diffucult. I have found that I don’t mind them for general stock prep on wide boards less problems with rocking. However the regular flat sole would be more versatile to my mind since it would do both equally well. Oh one more thing regarding the “less” friction with a corrugated bottom I think that is total hogwash I can’t tell a bit of difference. That is just my two cents take it for what is worth. Hope this helps.
15 November 2012 at 8:58 pm #3272Dave
I guess I will wade in on this one. My workspace is a ultility closet that is 40″X114″ or just over 34 square feet. On the topic of benches I have built three so far a tiny roubo (hated it with a passion will NEVER build another ever) a knock down sawhorse table and finally a 22 in X 6 foot Nicholson or english style bench by far my favorite(in is on lumberjocks under workbenches brettmcd if you are curious). I have determined that for most furniture work 6 feet is ample. I would suggest that you made an english style about this long with Paul Sellers captured wedge on the under side of the apron to make it “knock down” if you omited the tool well and did a split top the whole bench could be set up in 5-10 minutes max. Each apron should weigh around 65-70 lbs. I have found that the best benefit to this bench is that each part is not excessively heavy and yet the sum of all the parts is quite substantial. This style could easily be stored in a closet with a total of 4-5 pieces (2 aprons, 2 leg H Frames, 1 split top) STore it in the closet when not in use then set if up wherever you have space then store in the closet when you are done. This bench and a small chest and wall cabinet would allow you to make a lot of furniture if you really wanted to despite limited space. I know in this shop I have made 3 beds (1 of which was a bunk bed and several tables along with a couple book shelfs and multiple benches.)
So this was too long of a post I know but the short story is go out and build something and don’t let you space be an excuse. Best of luck
Brett -
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