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Nice. Exactly the solution I’m looking for. I guess combination of materials does not harm, right? I’d like to use oak for everything what is visible, and some cheaper wood (like beech) for invisible parts. Indeed oak is quite expensive wood (here in Switzerland sold 2700CHF/m^3 compared to beech of 1400CHF/m^3, walnut is sold for 5000CHF/m^3)
So the goal is to make frame construction with slots, put ply as a filler into invisible places and ‘door-like’ panels into visible parts, right?
Hi Larry,
Thanks for answer. Your hints are perfectly valid. The only problem for me is that this pen was supposed to be manufactured for “no lathe pen challenge” on youtube. So creating my small lathe would not be an option 🙂 I think that without a stationary drill this is almost no go, unless I have an eye of eagle and skills of 100years old japanese working his entire life in cabinetryYes, it is indeed possible. i did it on several occasions when doing veneer for my guitar. first hand plane the to face, then rip saw, then hand-plane second side with the first one glued by double-sided tape to something flat. it is some work, but definitely doable
.d.
Hi both,
thanks for hints. Scribing tool seems as a very good idea. Wouldn’t you have a picture of yours? IMO the only way how to produce one is to use chalk or something similar, running over the entire one side of the square such, that when i’m scribing, it shows the points of the touch in white (if the chalk is white, i have a dark wood). so i have to somehow intelligently fix the chalk into the square….. hmmm
- This reply was modified 7 years, 1 month ago by dejfson.
Yes, David is right. As you have it assembled like this, put there thin superglue and spray with the accelerator. Then remove top board so the thing closes and the joint glues instantly. You only have to make few shavings on the top of the board because accelerator leaves sort of debris. I’m not guessing, because this happened to me dozen of times 🙂
Dear all,
thanks for these fruitful comments. Strictly speaking, I thought that variant 3 will be the most viable, at the same time this is not what I did 🙂 So I ended with few panels warped such, that I have to get rid of half of the thickness to make them straight. So I will probably use them for something else and reglue new panels using approach (3).
Have a nice Christmas time!
.d.
I had the same problem, which came from a damaged corners of the plane sole. I have accidentally hit by the plane a bolt. This created a small ding in the sole, which was scratching the wood with every single stroke. I’ve used a file to remove the dings. Since then no problem, but I’m very careful not to do this again.
Thanks to all these answers. It looks like I really have to change the wood provider. Problem here in Geneva/CH is, that I don’t know any company, where you can just walk in and choose the timber of your choice. The only two I have found are either corabois.ch (http://corabois.ch/liste_prix/2_bois_massif/1_bois_massif.php)
or getaz-miauton
(http://www.getaz-miauton.ch/f/catalog/pdf/Brochure%20bois%20massifs_2014_FR_ToWeb.pdf)Both of them are quite large companies, who do not allow their clients to walk in the stock and look around …
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