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The desk box looks nicely finished! As stated above, the dark paint on the bottom really sets off the cherry sides.
I had to go look up what a desk box was and now I am really intrigued. (Hint: it’s not just a box on the desk.)
Do you have any pictures of the interior?
That looks like a pallet-load of fun!
I have resawn mesquite, ash and construction lumber with a similar Disston. Check that it’s sharp and doesn’t have too much set. I have tried it with a Japanese-style pull saw and that went a lot slower. But I don’t use the pull saw much and have less practice with it.
Also, you may want to start by flattening and squaring up the faces. After that, you might not be able to get 3/4″ boards off of 5/4 rough. For sure you can get 1/2″ boards.
Mark out your resaw lines as two parallel lines all the way around. Saw between the lines as best you can, flipping the board every dozen strokes or so. Put on some good music too.
By the time you’re through the first layer of that pallet, you will be an accomplished resawing pro.
Thanks, gentlemen! The dye would be applied directly to the wood and I may shellac over that. Then I believe I would use the vile oil-based poly topcoat as suggested. I intend the coasters to be a gift and want them to last.
Now to pick through the woodpile!
Roberto, I checked for twist also and planed the underside until it was free of twist. I believe the meeting faces between the apron and the side edge of the benchtop were not square. I neglected to check before glue-up and it’s too late now!
Fortunately the gap underneath wasn’t too huge. The shim was only needed on one leg frame. First, I did plane the tops of the leg frames (the bearers) and got them level with each other. They were both a bit twisty. If you do that, make sure your screws are well below the surface.
I apologize to the OP for completely hijacking your discussion thread. We had the same problem with the worktop at the same time.
That is exactly what I did. The workbench is set up where it will be used and now has a thin shim between the legframe bearer and the top.
I cinched a long clamp across the aprons above the leg frames and then drove screws up into the bearers and through the benchtop. Nothing rocks and all four legs are square on the floor.
Pretty happy so far.Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.I just glued my benchtop to the front apron and found a small gap between the bottom of the benchtop and the top of the leg frame. Best guess is I did not plane square the meeting faces between benchtop and apron. I had worked to get the twist out of the benchtop bottom and was pretty happy with it.
After reading the comments above, I think I will squeeze a shim between the leg frame and benchtop. Seems like the least destructive option.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Well I got a functional router! The new wedge grips so tight I almost didn’t get it back out. (Hot tip: Safety Is Your Concern.)
After looking at your plane and watching a plane making video, I decided to transfer the mortise layout to the end of the plane body. Then I scribed in the thickness of the chisel blade. I cut a new wedge blank and transfered the scribed layout to the wedge. That got me a lot closer to the shape needed. The rest was just fitting and refinement.
I also cut a dowel to plug a hole I drilled through on the first mortise attempt. Really need to work on my aim.
Obviously it needs more shaping and prettying up. But she lives and is ready to dance!
Thanks for the help!
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You must be logged in to view attached files.The cutter is a Harbor Freight 1/4″ chisel sans handle. (HF chisels don’t have real tangs btw.) I have the mortise hole cut for the chisel. Not sure if I should continue refining the mortise or if I should work on the wedge. I think the wedge I have made is way too soft besides not fitting very well. I will likely make a new wedge. In fact I will probably start on that now.
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