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Thanks for the replies. Sometimes when I’m cutting dovetails I get ahead of myself and put the knife wall in instead of the pencil line. Then I cut the dovetail angles. Then I go to flush the side piece and add the knife wall only to realize I already did it. It seems to me that this wouldn’t compromise the fitting of the joint.
I use a small flashlight on a 9 inch flexible neck with a magnetic base about 2 inches in diameter ( I bought it to use with my drill press). I stick the magnetic base on the cast iron face of my bench vise and by bending the neck and rotating the magnetic base I can shine it on the line I’m cutting. I can also move it so the angle of the light is optimal. The flashlight is one of those that you can rotate the head to change the size and intensity of the beam. It has helped me a lot.
Ed,
After doing some more poking around, I found out the chisels are tapered 3 degrees from back to front, as you suggested. Thanks for setting me straight. Now my question is, does the taper cause a problem if you are using Paul’s mortise jig? It seems like if you are holding the side of the chisel tight against the jig, it would then be twisted 3 degrees to the wall of your mortise. Is that such a small amount that it doesn’t matter?I was considering buying a set of Narex mortise chisels until I heard that the chisel width tapers from the tip to the handle to provide sidewall clearance. I have been using Paul’s mortise guide and I’m worried that the sides of the mortise would be angled when the chisel is held tightly to the guide. Has anyone had experience using them with Paul’s guide?
I hate to admit what was causing my problem. You know how you are supposed to cut the ends of the tenons at 45 degrees? Well, it appears I missed a couple of them. So entitydigital’s guess was the closest. Those two mortises were 3/8″ too shallow because the adjacent tenon was in the way. I’d like to think I’m not the first person to do this, but it’s still pretty embarrassing.
Thanks to all who took the time to try to help me out. My table joints fit great now.Don
In Paul’s video “Preparing rough stock” he uses his scrub plane on a board and then says you could leave the surface like that ” mocking the original plane marks. I noticed when I was at the Hancock Shaker museum that you could see all these undulations on the surface of the wood after they had finished it”. It’s about 30 minutes into the video. I wouldn’t think the museum would let him take the drawers out to look at the bottom, so I assumed he was talking about the exposed surfaces.
Thanks for the replies. I’ve already made the sides, so that ship has sailed. Actually, I don’t drink coffee. I’m going to use this as a trash bin. I guess I’ll take everyone’s advice and forget about using dovetails. I think I’ll practice making rebate joints instead.
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