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I’m no expert on hand planes, but I think things may be happening on a smaller scale than you are thinking about. When you think about the small amount that a plane iron extends from the sole, the deviations from flat that a real world plane sole would exhibit (even if flatten on diamond plates or float glass), flex in the cast iron plane, and flex in the wood, I think that the geometry is probably not so simple. Given that both plane designs work, the differences in design, may be insignificant compared to how the planes are held by the person using them.
Thanks for sharing that. It’s always neat to see the “stories” in pieces like that, I can understand why would like to keep it. It sort of adds a historical connection to someones past work.
“against the pressures of time and his own expectations” I certainly know that feeling.
Well, I was joking with Matt that since he didn’t have a use for his box he should send it to me. Clearly Matt is a very generous person and sent me the box, which I was certainly not expecting. As promised, I have found a use for it.
First I have to say that I cannot thank Matt enough for his generosity in sending it to me. I do have a little something to send him, and lucky for him, it is not something I actually made π The box is very well constructed! It’s also much larger than Matt’s photographs suggest. If this is Matt’s “practice box” I’m thoroughly impressed! And I have to say quite honored that he sent it to me. Also working on Paul’s class, I can really appreciate what went into making it.
I told Matt I would share some photos of what I would use it for, and thought I would share them with you guys also.
I brought the box into work with me for some of my personal tools.
[attachment file=”IMG_4367.JPG”]
Here you can see the box, next to my Paul Seller’s sliding dovetail box.[attachment file=”IMG_4369.JPG”]
The tray is great, and small frequently used tools can go in there, and I can move the tray to where I’m working.[attachment file=”IMG_4370 copy.jpg”]
Inside, I can put larger, less frequently used items.Thanks again Matt, I’m honored and humbled that you would send something like this, something that took so long to make, to someone that you don’t really know.
-DavidEdit to add, I thought the photos would show up inline, but that didn’t work, so you will have to match the caption to the photo on your own π
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Christopher, the diamond stones do take some “break in”. I started with a coarse stone, and then got a medium and fine. The medium and fine, when new, were MUCH coarser than the coarse. Mine are still settling in, but I took advantage of the new stones being so coarse by flattening plane soles and other things that needed lots of material removed.
@dave has inspired me to try and make Paul’s rebate plane https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/2014/09/making-rebate-plane/
Not to derail Dave’s thread, but for the rebate plane, do you think cherry glued face to face would work? I don’t have stock that is thick enough, but I do have some temperamental cherry that I could use.
Hi John, thanks for the reply! It’s hard to see from the photo, but the steel jaws are just below (~1/8″) below the work surface of the bench, and the wood jaw liners are level with the bench like you suggest. The back jaw is not recessed, being new, I don’t really know what the best was is, but I followed Paul’s advice as a default. https://paulsellers.com/2014/01/flush-vises/ It seems to work well for me, but I don’t have any means of comparison. -David
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