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Someone above mentioned the wood database, which is really great. But if you specifically want a book, Eric Meier, who created the wood database, has recently published the info as a book.
This book was written to largely answer your points 1&3 from the perspective of a craftsman.
– Identifying (timber)wood based on color, markings, fiber structure etc.
– Upon identification, what are the structural features, qualities, challenges to the real woodworker?It covers 250-300 different types of lumber including structural and physical properties such as stress loading, elasticity, humidity movement, etc.
You can find it here: http://www.amazon.com/Identifying-Using-Hundreds-Woods-Worldwide/dp/098224603X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447444738&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+meier
@woodworker435: If you run out of room and decide to give away or sell any of that, drop me a line. I’m just east of you in Geauga County. Sounds like a great haul.
@Mooncabbage, glad I could help. Honestly, I didn’t like the furniture screws either, although I have seen some saws where they worked/looked nice. Unfortunately, I don’t have any near-term travel scheduled to Oz, so the wedding will have to be postponed.
I have gone through this search for saw nuts myself, repeatedly. Here are some affordable solutions that you might consider:
– buy nickel-plated saw nuts from Amazon.com: http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-Hand-Replacement-Screws/dp/B000G33PA8
– buy 1″ furniture binding screws from big box store. These are often brass-plated steel, so look fairly nice, if non-traditional. They tighten using hex wrenches on either side.
– go to your local Habitat for Humanity ReSTORE (or other second-hand goods place), and buy crummy and/or worn-out saws (usually $3-5) and salvage the saw nuts. Nice traditional saw nuts can often be obtained this way.
– if you’re in the UK, or don’t care about shipping costs, you can get reasonably priced brass or brass-plated saw nuts here: http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/acatalog/Saw_Screws_.html#SID=432
Thanks for chiming in so far, guys. And especially to Paul for correcting the saw-kerf record. I find it fascinating that this method of work is so poorly known and understood. I agree with Dave that it should split the boards, but there are hundreds of antique chests and drawers in central PA made by Pennsylvania Dutch craftsmen of yesteryear using this method. Probably hundreds more still in use in the homes of Amish and Old Order Mennonite families. Since I live near a fairly large community of Amish folk, I’m going to discreetly ask around to see if I can get in contact with any traditionally trained cabinetmakers and learn the history and how-to of this enigmatic joint. It may take a while, but I’ll post any updates here.
Jay,
Take a look at these links:
http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/rww-151-roubo-resaw-frame-saw-in-action/
http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/roubo-frame-saw-blade/index.html
Roubo Frame Saw from the Hand Tool SchoolAnd an somewhat opposing position:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/the-emperors-new-frame-sawJust to be a gadfly and prove that there’s never 1 correct answer in woodworking… Take a look at Richard Maguire using a lump hammer as his primary “mallet” here: http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=689 . I saw this a few months ago when I was searching for a new mallet myself. I picked up something similar at the local hardware store and have used it (although not exclusively) with very good results so far.
Having said that, I think you’ll be better off following the conventional advice to get started.
Eddy, as we’ve heard from David, the no. 12 was not particularly rare. The only rarity would come from it the etch and being dateable to that specific six years 1865-1871 when Disston had only one son working with him.
Guys, you’ve all been great. Thanks for the input. I think I am going to de-rust and put it back to use. Let it fulfill the measure of it’s creation. The saw has been resharpened enough that the toe is pretty narrow, and I’m going to have to completely re-tooth it, so I may still end up cutting it back a few inches. We’ll see.
By the way, @dave, how are those saws working out for you?
Cheerio!
Flott is a German drill making company in business since 1854. http://www.flott.de. Everything I can find about them (in English, limited) on the interwebs says quality. It looks good in the pictures. If the chuck works well and the price is right… these hand drills are nifty tools, I have a few of them, various vintages. Handy for pilot holes, etc. when the battery dies on my other cordless drill.
Since we’re starting some toolmaking sessions here on Masterclasses, I second (or third, or whereever our counter is at) Greg’s recommendation to read the Gramercy Tools bow saw article. Then go for it. I made one of these a year and half ago, using the Gramercy plans and pin/handle kit. A very cost effective way to get a really nice saw and it just feels great to use something you’ve made yourself. As Florian and Paul have shown, these can be scaled up to make a general purpose frame saw quite easily.
Those boards have a lot of beautiful character. It’s going to be a lovely table. Assuming the tabletop boards are well-jointed, glue will be completely sufficient for holding the boards together. With the glue properly spread, long-grain to long-grain edge joints are stronger than the internal wood fiber adhesion. Watch the coffee table episode where Paul glues up the tabletop panel.
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