Turning Saw Build
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- This topic has 78 replies, 23 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 2 months ago by Greg Merritt.
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5 January 2014 at 12:59 am #25297
Thanks Sandy. I’m sure it will. Unless I over tighten it and break it. 🙁
5 January 2014 at 11:52 am #25318Greg, Please relate how well it works after putting it thru it’s paces. Never having used one, these saws seem top heavy to me and would be tough to cut an accurate line.
Are these saws essentially a rough cut version of a coping saw? and would they be used instead of a bandsaw?
Greg, I’m going to ask a stupid question because I have never owned, or had in my hand, a saw of this type. I’ve seen Paul’s bow saw which I assume works on the same principle except the turning capability. Are the joints solid and you depend on the ability of the wood to flex or is there allowance in the joints for movement?
5 January 2014 at 3:06 pm #25325Ok…I’ve only used it on some scraps and to cut out out my Bench Stool seat blank. It worked great. I found that I was able to follow a line very easily. I had no issue with it being top heavy. At points where the frame is 90deg to the work, worst case, I simply steadied the frame with my other hand. The seat blank is 1-1/2″ thick, I used the coping saw for a few inches just for comparison. There is none. The turning saw made short work of the job and there was very little clean up needed with the spoke shave. This saw makes cutting large curves or thicker stock much easier. I don’t think that it is a replacement for a bandsaw though. A bandsaw can be used for several other operations that this type of saw is just not capable of doing. Re-sawing boards is a good example. A frame saw would be needed for that type of operation.
Sandy and et al. The joints of the saw are intentionally loose to allow the frame to adjust for slightly different length blades and during tensioning. The mortise holes in the arms are longer than the actual tenon in the stretcher and the mating shoulder is curved. This allows the frame to settle into on optimum center line as you tension it. As I apply tension I can actually watch the stretcher ride on the curved shoulder until it finds center. It is amazing how much tension can be easily applied with the string and toggle method.
5 January 2014 at 3:15 pm #25326Sandy there is allowance for movement in the mortise and tenon joint also the curved shoulder line helps.The string and key provide tension for the blade.
I used bow saw many years ago at college on an exam piece I was doing. I had trouble using it but the blade did not feel that sharp and I was trying to cut a curve in quite thick stock. I ended using a tenon saw cutting vertical saw cuts to just above my marks on timber then chopped away with chisel. Then finished with a spokeshaveto curved.
I suppose because of that bad experience I have never tried since.
A while back I did intend to make bow saw but never got done. Since Greg has made his beutiful bow saw it has spured me on to make one.5 January 2014 at 3:37 pm #25327If you are planning to build a turning saw I recommend reading this article and to just do an image search on google there are many different shapes and sizes. I would concentrate on the vintage ones though, they have have survived over the years for a reason.
Greg, you can put an amazing amount of preasure on anything with this tension method. I use it to buld corner post and tension post on my fences at the house. Ive broken 4″ post by over tightening. Good to hear your design works so well. I’ll keep you pictures for a ref for when I get around to building mine. Thanks for the article too…
7 January 2014 at 2:12 pm #25450Very nice Florian! Photos and a video…your getting fancy on us now. It looks like you’ve built yourself a great saw. Good work.
Since we’re starting some toolmaking sessions here on Masterclasses, I second (or third, or whereever our counter is at) Greg’s recommendation to read the Gramercy Tools bow saw article. Then go for it. I made one of these a year and half ago, using the Gramercy plans and pin/handle kit. A very cost effective way to get a really nice saw and it just feels great to use something you’ve made yourself. As Florian and Paul have shown, these can be scaled up to make a general purpose frame saw quite easily.
As I start to think about a frame saw, and read up on the various styles, I’m interested in the type with the blade in the middle of the frame, instead of at the bottom. Does anyone know of a manufacturer that makes this style? I’m not sure if my skills are up to the task of making a tool that requires much precision yet. I recently ripped down some maple stock and I want to try it with a frame saw next.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Jay,
Take a look at these links:
http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/rww-151-roubo-resaw-frame-saw-in-action/
http://www.blackburntools.com/new-tools/new-saws-and-related/roubo-frame-saw-blade/index.html
Roubo Frame Saw from the Hand Tool SchoolAnd an somewhat opposing position:
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/arts-mysteries-blogs/the-emperors-new-frame-saw19 February 2014 at 8:42 pm #28080I had not seen this thread til the other day so I thought I would show my latest effort of a turning saw. I started on the project last fall (before I knew of this site or Paul) and ended up at the Gramercy site. After reading their piece, I decided to build a saw in that pattern as something of a super coping saw which I didn’t have. Got their kit with pins, handles and blades, and got some hickory from a local wood store. At the time I had never cut a mortise before and the saw looked like it. After a long journey, filled with learning experiences, I got to the last step, drilling the holes for the pins (how hard can it be?) and screwed one of them up. Armed with my experience and new-found knowledge from Paul’s videos, I proceeded to start another saw using some walnut that I’d been dragging around forever. In a nutshell the result is much better, not yet perfect, but good enough to use. I will probably build another or try to fix my first attempt so I can have a saw ready to go with each of the 3 blade types they sell. Like so many things, it’s been a great training vehicle and I’m waiting for Paul to bring out his project. They seem to offer some advantages in terms of size (taken down)and the ability to have a wide variety of tooth choices. In his book,Tage Frid seems to think they are the cats meow for just about everything, and some other European gurus feel the same way. I’ll see how it works for me.
Cheers,
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