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Thanks everyone for you helpful comments! I did initially test on pine but subsequently oak with similar clogging effect. The wedge is in very good condition and shaped to fine point so it couldn’t be this.
I went back and put a much keener edge on the blade ( other moulding planes i have seem to be more forgiving with less of an edge). I also reviewed the body again and found that lengthwise there was still a very slight concave profile , ie the blade mouth lay above the ends of the body, no doubt through wear. As a result it needed a slighter deeper setting to make a start the cut which rapidly became too deep as the plane body advanced. As the plane was a simple hollowing profile, I shaped something similar in reverse in wood ( sadly i don’t have the reverse moulding plane) lined it with sandpaper and took of some of the surface. This helped immensely. Combining it with a much sharper blade, suddenly i had ribbon shavings. The amount i had to remove was minuscule. It’s amazing how sensitive and finicky such a simple tool could be, but with a little attention probably performing as good as the day it was made.
Thanks again for all your pointers,
I recently got one of the shinto rasps that Mr Sellers has used on several projects (e.g. the floor lamps) to try and found that they work really well. With both a coarse and more medium side you can get a long way with it. As to their longevity I cannot attest but they do a reasonable job of removing wood for shaping. i must add that I do also own two aurio rasps, and no surprises here, they are superior (If you follow up use of a shinto rasp with a flat file you can get a nice finish). But Auriou rasps are, as you are aware, $100+ whereas the shinto rasp is around $30. I found the shinto ones at woodcraft ( in the US), but as always your ever friendly Amazon carry hem as well.
Hope that helps.