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[quote quote=553472]Are the admins here opposed to sales or trades going on?[/quote]
Hello Keith. We are not set up for sales and trades in these forums so ask people not to use them for such as there is a lot involved in doing that practically and legally. Thanks for asking though, it is something we will think about for the future.
There is a guide on our Common Woodworking site which also goes over this process: https://commonwoodworking.com/sharpening-a-router-plane/
There is a note in the drawings and cutting list that you need to stick with either the metric or imperial so the measurements are not directly comparable. If we had gone with direct conversions of the imperial to mm, it would have made it difficult for the users of metric, as there would have been no round numbers, as well as it needing stock that is not of a common thickness. Hope that helps.
I think that it may well indicate initial size of the abrasive, but I don’t know if they have the same way of determining grit size for diamond stones and abrasive paper. The wet & dry paper does loose it’s abrasiveness after not too long. If there is a lot of stock to remove we sometimes go for a coarser grit. We have a large coarse ezelap plate that we use for flattening and the such, and that has held up well so far and still cuts pretty quickly. It hasn’t been used intensely by lots of students, but we do still restore a lot more tools than your average woodworker.
To chime in about wear on our plates that have been abused through various classes and used for many tool restorations and flattening. Those coarse plates certainly loose that initial abrasiveness quickly, but are still in our experience coarser than the other plate. You can generally tell from the sizes of the scratches on the iron when sharpening. They do get less coarse with time, but as mentioned, cleaning is essential.
We certainly apply a fair amount of pressure once they have been used for a while, perhaps more than recommended. They don’t cut as quickly as new 250 grit wet and dry, so can be a bit slow when flattening a surface as large as the base of a plane or a chisel that is a long way out, or an edge with a large nick in it.
I think that sometimes the expectation doesn’t line up with the end results, which can be disheartening when you’ve spent a lot on them, but they should last you years.
Austin, sometimes the saw plate is seated all the way into the back, so hitting it doesn’t make much difference. In that instance, the best thing to do is to put the saw plate in the vise with the back sitting just above the vise jaws, and use something such as a flat headed screwdriver to very gently lever the back up a little all along the length of the back from both sides. You should be able to get the plate to move out by about 1/4″ without too much effort.
Here are the main differences:
1. This bench is smaller, it is shorter, only has one side, and is easier to move
2. This series is more thorough (we missed showing vise fitting last time)
3. This bench build includes full measurements (you can still adapt it but you have a solid starting point)
1. If you look at the top drawing of the inside of the apron, each housing takes the leg and then the wedge to hold it in place. This is why the inside of the housing is slightly sloped.
2. You could move them closer to the end if you wanted. Paul has placed them where he considers them most convenient for work. There has to be enough resistance on the outside of the housing and other details are effected, but it is hard to be specific.
3. Paul doesn’t use a tail vise, and doesn’t find it particularly useful, so you would have to make adjustments to use one. See here.
4. A 29cm apron is certainly stronger than a 20cm one. Paul has tried a 23cm one, and said it wasn’t as sturdy. Up to you.
We are putting together more information on the workbench, but the best place for now is the information page.
Does that all make sense?