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Looks exactly like my 5 1/2. I got mine from a local “antique” market for £15. It was a bargain as I also got £40 worth of rust :-). It cleaned up well though. The iron holds a good edge and its making a great job of dressing up the sapele I’m making a door with.
[quote quote=136441]I have a set of Narex chisels and had a similar problem. I think the issue was the temper was drawn out of the tips in production. I ground the tips back about 1/8 inch and reground the bevels. They work very well now.
[/quote]I’ll see how well they hold an edge Peter and if needs be I’ll try out your suggestion.
[quote quote=136434]Hi I think you must have a set of Aldi defective chisels I have had a set for some time now and have found them to be fine, I have found the steel to be comparable to my other chisels, in relation to how they sharpen and how long the edge lasts. If I was you I would return them for a refund I know that Paul has used them in his classes for a number of years and has always rated them very highly
[/quote]Hi David, if they are defective, I think I might be stuck with them. I have had them since November and no longer have the receipt.
I have always free-handed the way my dad taught me using a combination oil stone followed by a quick “strop” on my sleeve or the thigh of my jeans. But last year I broke my combination oil stone. Having been following Paul for a while I decided to up my game and looked at diamond stones, I’d tried scary sharp once, but couldn’t be bothered with all the double sided tape/spray glue, umpteen sheets of wet ‘n’ dry, etc. In the end I stuck with Norton oil stones, but upped my game to a set of three (£54): coarse, medium and fine; and splashed out on some green polishing compound, I’m real high tech now. I use a guide for sorting out blades from tools I get from Ebay and car boot sales. Something to think about, my dad would never let me use his oil stone, I had to buy my own on day 1. He told me to never use someone else’s stone or let someone else use yours. Because way back when, everyone free-handed so every stone was worn to the individual joiners technique and style of sharpening, which is affected by stance, pressure, stroke length, etc, etc. Something to think about if you are tempted to buy a used stone from the likes of Ebay. The wear pattern might not suit your sharpening style and you will be fighting to get a sharp edge every time you use it.
I have a #4 with a pitted sole, the only issue I can see with it is that it does not slide easily on the surface of the wood I’m planning. My #4 scrub plane has a better sole and has noticeably less resistance when pushing it along the surface of the wood. The only reason it is no longer my smoothing plane is that I dropped it once and cracked one of the cheeks and decided to make it into a scrub plane
I have a messy collection of screwdrivers and have been promising myself a nice set one day. I saw these at the weekend but for some reason never picked them up. By the way, their paint brushes are really good value too. The handles are comfy and bristle drop is minimal and better than any of the own brand/value priced type of brushes I have bought from the big DIY outlets.
Any timber merchant will have sawn whitewood, try the likes of Travis Perkins in Birmingham. Or for a greater selection of species you could try the likes of James Latham, they have a place in Dudley. If you are new to joinery and timber merchants etc. Lathams may look a bit intimidating, don’t worry, they are easy to deal with. 18 months ago I bought enough western red cedar (WRC) from their Scottish depot to build a 16ft long strip plank canoe, and then I bought some sapele to make an oversized front door, all sawn timber. I didn’t need a trade account or anything. The soft woods Lathams have are: WRC, Southern yellow pine, Quebec yellow pine, pacific cost hemlock, clear Douglas fir, European Redwood (Pine/Scots Pine) and European Whitewood (Deal/Norway Spruce). If you look on their website you will see the sizes available, but not prices. They have only ever quoted prices to me in cubic meters. For hardwoods I would expect to pay £1300 – £1500 per cubic meter. Softwoods should be a bit cheaper, though my WRC was about £1490 per cubic meter. If you go to the likes of Lathams you might be getting “green” timber, i.e. it is pretty much straight from the forest and needs drying.
I would simply reply that “that is the way it is done” I started following Paul as although I served my apprenticeship as a carpenter / joiner it’s many years since I was on the tools and wanted to refresh my skills. So it’s interesting to me to see the questions people new to the trade ask. Maybe it’s just me but if my tradesman said to start planning at the far end of a length of timber, I just did it, reasoning he knew best as he had much more experience than me. I’d say that the craft has been around for millennia and we use the techniques and methods we do as they have withstood the test of time.
Oh no! @mattmcgrane, you are not the first person to tell me from their personal experience that laparoscopy operations on the knee don’t always result in a quick pain free recovery. I have been hearing of 6 – 7 weeks recovery needed before being able to return to work 🙁
You are right by the way, the bench wont be completed by Monday night. I’ll keep going and get as much done as possible. I might have the leg frames made and the two tops laminated. I have some 12″ X 2″ DAR for the apron and tool well, which has saved some work.
I came across something like this once before. If the screw that the adjuster wheel runs on is not fully seated into the frog you will not be able to properly advance the iron but you will be able to reduce the amount of the iron protruding from the sole. It sounds like this is perhaps your problem.
Check out Pauls blogs, here is one to be going on with https://paulsellers.com/2014/09/saws-come-back-to-life/
I ht submit too soon. Here are the rest of the pics. you will notice i saw my tennons differently to Paul. I set the work piece so that I can see the end of the tennon and the edge of it i.e. I start the cut at a corner and cut the end and side of the tennon at the same time, turn it round when I reach the shoulder and cut the other side then finish with a vertical cut.
The pic number ****166 shows a piece of waste sitting against the tennon shoulder to show the crispness of the cut.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.After a couple of cuts with the saw and being impressed with the relative fineness of the cuts I thought to myself “I bet i could cut a tennon with that saw”. i have a few big tennons to cut for a big old sapele farmhouse door I need to make. My trial run is a door I’m making for by garage form salvaged white pine previously used for shuttering. I used the off cuts from the door stiles for this wee experiment.
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