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6 June 2022 at 10:37 pm #762351
Those jorgensen 23 euro clamps look exactly like the harbor freight aluminium bar clamps I bought, except the paint color. I think they were $10 several years ago. I suspect they come out of the same factory.
I bought 6 36 inch clamps and reinforced them with a thin strip of high quality 19mm plywood, which slips in just right.
I like them well enough for glue ups. The light weight is nice. They definately could break if one tried to exhert high pressure.
I certainly wouldn’t call them ‘high quality’, but I think I like having 6 of these more than 2 higher quality ones, which was my choice at the time.
20 April 2022 at 7:11 pm #756946This is the picture frame video? If so I think the final thickness in the video is near 3/4. Could start from pre-milled 3/4 (aka 1″) or rough 7/8 (aka 1″ or 4quarter).
I think it is going to be a bit harder to make a frame less than 3/4 final thickness. Things get tight and thin. Also have to consider how much depth you need for mounting.
Personally I have found 3/4 to be barely enough for fitting a protective glass (actually I use plastic for shipping/kids throwing stuff/earthquake reasons) front + masking + the art + 1/4 inch backing + the little pins to hold it all into the frame. I guess it wouldn’t be too hard to find a backing that was 1/8 for a smaller frame, however.
I don’t think you will regret having made the jig for 3/4 even if you end up preferring thicker and making another jig simply because a frame is a good way to use some left over 3/4 material.
7 April 2022 at 6:51 am #755156I think the best fix would be a graving piece. Where you replace the defect with a good piece of wood glued in then plane it level. It will look good and be strong. Won’t crack or crumble over time. Won’t cause you problems if you need to re-flatten the top. It’ll be just like the rest of the top for the depth of your patch.
You might be able to scrape out the hard glue enough that you could simply cut a wedge cross section strip of wood to match the gap well enough, put glue on it, and tap/weight/clamp it into the gap (but don’t be so forceful that you split the whole top!). Alternatively, you would cut a groove to get a good clean gap of known width and depth and glue new wood into that.
Wood filler/sawdust and glue will stop stuff falling in, and would be easy, and wouldn’t stop you doing that more elaborate fix in the future. I don’t think it would add strength, however.
Epoxy would put a hard plastic seam in your bench. Seems a little dubious to me. Might be too strong and hard.
Ignoring it is another good option. Workbench just has to work!
- This reply was modified 2 years ago by jeff Fisher.
14 January 2022 at 8:44 pm #744807I haven’t tried those specifically, but I do have a cheaper type of quick release vice that uses the turn backward a little mechanism and I do regularly end up fighting with it in exactly the case described. If you want to just turn a piece around or switch to another identical one the amount of unscrewing that it will do before disengaging and sliding further is usually not enough to get the peice out or get the next one in, but if it slides you now have to turn more on the next piece… so is it really saving time overall? Of course it could also be that mine just isn’t very good, heh.
Stands to reason that a non-quick-release vice is dead simple and ought to have very reliable behavior.
So I think it is definately a tradeoff.
1 December 2021 at 4:18 am #738972A board can split like that when attached to nothing at all if the ends dry faster than the middle. I would assume a table top glue up is more veulnerable to that. Perhaps the wood wasn’t dried well enough? Any chance the end with the problem is in the sun or near a heater?
22 September 2021 at 5:08 am #729740My Woden (so not Stanley, but very similar) 78’s depth stop has two vertical ridges, but one of them is thicker than the other. The thicker one fits in the groove, the other one has no groove to fit in. Even if the ridges were the same I don’t think slight rotation around the vertical axis when tightened would be a problem in this part, the other axis are the critical ones.
The notches on the blade are intended to account for sharpening so one or maybe two of them should be usable at any point in time. If none seem to work perhaps there is a problem with the adjustment lever?
- This reply was modified 2 years, 7 months ago by jeff Fisher.
9 August 2021 at 9:16 pm #724270Wooden boat builders do a fair bit of laminating wood with epoxy. Might find some information by searching in the boat building world.
16 June 2021 at 5:51 pm #717426I don’t know about ‘best’ but crosscut hardwoods has a portland location. I go to the one in Seattle and at least in terms of selection it is amazing.
21 May 2021 at 8:13 pm #714151That video is really quite good.
The ‘rockwool’, or similar, he’s using is super fire-resistant, and a good sound absorber. I’ve used it for heat insulation and you are supposed to mask up while installing it and it did irritate my skin if I touched it (its similar to fiberglass but the fibers are curly and tangled up so they don’t get around as much). A package of 8 bats is something like $60.
The clapping he does is the quick rt60 echo test. You clap once and listen to how long the clap sound reverberates. 1 second would be a normal indoor room. A concrete parking garage might get 3 seconds.
And the example that the little patch of stuff covering what 5%? of the room did nothing, but covering maybe 33% of the ceiling made a big difference is very much in line with what I have read.
Living in earthquake country I might make the frames a lot lighter, or seal the insulation into bags of some sort and avoid any hard stuff overhead. I would want to seal it so it doesn’t fill up with sawdust… and because it is just ugly.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 11 months ago by jeff Fisher.
20 May 2021 at 5:59 pm #714013I think you can put them where you want, but there are constraints to think about and layouts proven through history.
Be sure you are leaving enough wood in the leg. Too many mortises or too big or too close together and you can end up with a leg that is weak at the place it needs to be most strong. Think about how big the parts of the leg you are leaving are. Top two sketches look ok to me on that.
I wouldn’t count on a wall between two mortises less than 1/4 inch thick surviving my mortise chiseling. Thinner and I’m too likely to blow through. Also little strength in that thin wall. Bottom sketch may have a problem with this.
You want most of the width of your rail to go into the leg so it resists twisting and wracking better, but it doesnt necessarily all have to go full depth. The bottom sketch seems weaker in this way. The ‘normal’ way is more like your top two sketches. In the bottom sketch the rail who’s face is toward us is only joined to the leg at its bottom edge, so it is only as strong as that tenon against the leg being bent toward the center of the rail or twisted around the axis of the rail (the twist bit probably isnt’ super important, but bending the leg toward the middle is).
Shoulders on the rail hide the mortis cut of course, so you usually want them at least on show faces.
The traditional rules of thumb would say make your mortis width at most 1/3 of the leg, 5/8ths of an inch in a 2 inch leg. I don’t have a 5/8ths chisel so I’d go 1/2. I’d leave a shoulder at the bottom of 1/8th to hide the joint and at least 1/2 at the top (maybe a bit more for a dining table?) so the leg doesn’t split super easily at the top and leave a ‘horn’ of extra leg at the top until after the mortises are cut and the tenons fit (chopping mortises and fitting the tenon are very risky for splitting that thin end). Where the mortis and tenon go in the leg and rail would depend on how I wanted the rail face to align with the leg face. On a dining table I think I would keep the mortis at least 1/2 inch from the leg face, for strength.
Highly reccomend taking some scraps or overlong parts and doing a test joint. My legs had enough length for me to cut one mortis off on each one and my first attempt was indeed pretty shabby (I ended up not using the first or second attempts, though I would have used the second rather than buy another leg).
30 April 2021 at 6:59 pm #711327I have successfully used the shop-vac trick to repair some splits, but never on a plane. Got way more glue into the tight crack than I would have without it.
What you do is place the hose of your vacuum on the crack, opposite where you will attempt to introduce glue. You just stick it on there, so the suction of the vacuum is holding it in place. Then you put glue on the opposite side of the crack. The vaccum will (hopefully, I imagine it does not always work) suck the glue deeper into the crack. You can use tape to seal up parts of the crack so the only way in is where you introduce the glue. Alternate that with the clamp/unclamp as sebastiaan described to squish the glue around some until no more is going in. Then clamp it overnight.
Probably a good idea to try out some ideas on scraps before the real item. Whatever you do I think you have one shot, no way to get the glue out of the crack. Trip to the wood store looking for split boards. 🙂
23 March 2021 at 12:18 am #706387Well, I bought a set of 4. I’m not unhappy about it. They were $18.
I bought them to replace a few carpentry style hardware store chisels (ace branded I think) with big chunky plastic handles.
The Grebstk’s blades are about 50% longer, which is one of the problems I had with the others. The Grebstk’s wood handles are a lot thinner and lighter than the very chunky plastic/rubber handles on the others I like the shape and balance a lot more. I’ve chopped 8 mortises in 1 3/4 cherry with a plastic faced hammer and the handsurvived with only some bruising. The profile of the blades is about the same as the Ace, the sides of the chisel which are perpendicular to the back are quite thick before the bevel starts, basically the same as the ace, etc chisels that’s the one problem I had with the ace that was not improved (I believe the ‘aldi’ chisels have a more refined bevel). This sometimes makes it tough to get into acute corners, like on a dovetail. I will eventually probably buy at least one more finely beveled chisel. They are metric, as I expected.
As far as I can tell the physical properties of the steel are similar. I get them to the same sharpness, they seem to last about the same time, they take about the same effort to sharpen, the steel seems vaguely similar to the blade on my vintage stanley plane and to the ace chisels. I was able to flatten the back enough after not a huge effort (they are all hollow, but getting the first 1/4″ flat was not a giant amount of work). They sharpened up fine. Initially the smaller ones were not ground very square, but not so far out that it was a ton of work to correct. They were ground at about 27 degrees. They came sorta-sharp. Not nearly as sharp as I soon had them but it would have been possible to do rough work.
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