Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
I have suffered numerous joint problems over the years, recently had a spine operation and 2 hip replacements, but just about every joint in my body is bad.
Using a western saw used to really inflame my elbow joints and anterior portion of the shoulder, switching to Japanese saws completely eliminated those problems, for two reasons I believe,
firstly very little pressure is required with a Japanese saw as I’m sure most of us discovered when we bent our first jap saw lol
and secondly on the cutting stroke you are pulling rather than pushing so you are using opposing muscle groups and tendons. In my case this takes the pressure of my triceps tendons and front of my shoulder and transfers it to opposing areas which seem to cause much less pain.
I think it is very wise to just rest though until it is better, if I could turn back time, I would of not kept working through the pain and probably wouldn’t of turned a lot of the injuries into long term chronic injuries and maybe saved myself 5 joint operations.
And as I was told by one of the orthopaedic surgeons, be careful with NSAID’s such as diclofenac, naproxen etc as these are only masking the pain and not treating the cause of the inflammation, they are fine for pain relief, re gaining some mobility etc but just remember that you still have the injury and you don’t want to make it worse.
Anyway I hope your pain gets better and if like me your love for woodworking is great, then I’m sure you will learn to work around your injuries and experiment with different techniques and be able to identify the movements that you personally have to avoid, Like Matt said above “everyone is different” but I wish you all the best mate
Judging from what Ed said about the reviews, I strongly suspect that these stones are poorly manufactured with little consistency, I was using one a few years back and encountered the opposite – the stone was far from fine even after a lot of use, in my opinion it was to abrasive for a fine stone.
I think the sandpaper is good advice, at least then you will know weather your technique is correct or not,
This video will help you understand about the back of the chisel,
Hi Mark,
In my opinion, I think you are right when you say maybe the axminster stone isn’t up to the task – not because there is anything wrong with the stone, but even when used correctly it is simply to course to get a razor edge. Although if you are doing it right it shouldn’t be more blunt than a new chisel that hasn’t yet been honed.
This type of stone is also very course when new, I would lap the sole of a plane on it for a while to wear it in a bit.
Once you have raised a burr with the fine side of the stone, there is nothing more that can be done with that particular stone to achieve sharpness.
Personally I would not buy a set of cheaper chisels but instead spend the money on a finer stone to use in between the 1000 grit and a strop, even stropping directly after using the axminster stone would take a great deal of stropping to remove the deep scratches it has left. The fine (red) side of a Norton India stone would be a good choice – a fairly cheap yet very effective stone that I think not nearly enough people are aware of nowadays.
But the real sharpness can only be achieved by finishing the process with a superfine Waterstone or strop, be careful not to round the edge over when stropping and also bear in mind that the chisel must be initialised because a perfect mirror finish on the back of the cutting edge is equally as important as the bevel side.
Just keep practising and it wont be long until you are able to raise the burr and strop in under a couple of minutes. Good luck mate -
AuthorPosts