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4 February 2014 at 11:14 pm #27273
For Texster: A explanation of the 1:60 rule for finding an angle without a protractor. This is an approximation. At larger angles, the error can be a couple of degrees. Sorry for the crude nature of the diagram. Hope this helps.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.4 February 2014 at 6:46 pm #27253It’s hard to tell from the photos. If you think it might be the bevel angle, try setting the angle as described in my post above and re-sharpening until you raise a burr. Remove the burr and test it out. If the edge is crooked, you can fix this by applying more pressure to one side or the other.
One other problem I see is that your cap iron does not mate properly with your cutting iron and you are getting shavings wedged between them. File the cap iron at the proper angle until they meet without a visible gap on the front edge.
4 February 2014 at 6:23 pm #27238If the bevel angle at the tip is more than 45 degrees, it won’t cut because there is no relief (even though it may be sharp enough to shave hair). It’s possible that you put a micro bevel on the tip that exceeds 45 degrees. Even at 43 degrees, it probably wouldn’t cut well. It seems like most sources recommend sharpening plane irons to 30 degrees, but you could go up to about 40 degrees without affecting cutting performance. To get the proper angle, you can use the 1/60 rule. For each 1 degree, add a slope of 1/60. So for 30 degrees, use 30/60 or 1/2. This means, at a point 2 inches up on the plane iron, elevate it 1 inch from the surface. Or at a point 3 inches up, elevate it 1.5 inches. By the way, I am basically regurgitating info from Leonard Lee’s book which I read recently.
4 February 2014 at 6:00 pm #27231I agree with Sandy. Make a new one and it will be more valuable to you than the original. I have made some pieces to replace broken horns on both saws and planes. I don’t think an entire tote would be too difficult.
30 January 2014 at 4:19 pm #26872When I saw the box video, I had to know how the mechanism worked. After Googling, I found this: [url]https://sites.google.com/site/brturn2/puzzleboxdissection[/url]
This is for a much simpler box (7 steps, I believe). I can see how the idea could be scaled to a more complex box.30 January 2014 at 2:37 pm #26866Thanks everyone! That was exactly the kind of insight I was looking for.
26 January 2014 at 3:40 am #26544According to this website you can sharpen them by etching with a weak acid like vinegar.
[url]http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2010/12/quick-tip-7/[/url]25 January 2014 at 3:17 pm #26519Sometimes it’s hard for me to see the grain direction but I can “feel” it when I plane. I have found that marking the grain direction on the work saves frustration if I have to plane it again later.
If you start getting tear out when planing, change your tactics or it is likely to get worse.
When planing, if the surface supporting the work is not flat, it is difficult to plane the work flat. Shimming the low spots with wood shavings can help.
Only use your 2 reference faces when laying out lines. It really does make a difference 🙂
21 January 2014 at 1:40 am #26291I find this interesting but I don’t think I completely grasp the concept. I understand how to go from the drawing to the finished product, but what I don’t understand is how to go from an idea to a drawing. Why divide into ninths and then set the height to 2 plus 1/9? Or why choose 5*D as the height in your other post? Why not 4*D or 3*D? Are there rules for determining the spacing of the features? I’m probably missing something obvious. Nice drawings by the way..
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