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8 March 2018 at 1:51 am #492733
I think that is sound advise. Thank you. Itās always nice to hear others ideas and brainstorm a bit.
Thanks again š
Kevin21 February 2018 at 4:57 am #478531Having a slight gap on the inside is really not terrible. It might not be “perfect”, but that could actually help in the long run. Because your aprons will be slightly out of square, forcing them all together will add tension to the frame and add strength. The English Woodworker just addressed this very issue recently (you can find him online under that name). Christopher Schwartz also just addressed this issue as it relates to chair building. The same principle applies. Slightly our of whack joints add strength because they will be under tension when you make them square.
As long as you can get everything square with clamps and such, you’ll also have the tabletop to help keep it right where you want it once its secured with the buttons.
If you’d rather have everything all nice and tidy, you can make your mortise slightly larger by paring the side that’s not allowing it to straighten out to 90 degrees, then glue a small strip of wood to your tenon, and re-pare the tenon down to fit. If your tenon ends up being slightly loose, drawbore pinning them will help.
I’ve had this same issue and it all seemed to work out for me.
Good luck. Kevin
21 February 2018 at 4:47 am #478524That’s a good idea. I’ve had similar problems with pieces slipping. I put an oak 2×4 under my piece while chopping. The scrap sets on the rails of the vise and so there’s no room for anything to slide. Its all bottomed out. I like your idea though. Cool. Good job. Kevin
21 February 2018 at 4:43 am #478523I built a large dovetailed box to keep my drills and everything that goes with them for work. Working construction this box gets very highly abused, I have to admit. In the heat, in the cold, in the rain, ALWAYS outside and in the back of the truck getting banged around and carried all over the place. This thing is a champ. The guys sit on it, stand on it as a stool. I put it together with Titebond III and it is still going strong after a year with no signs of any of the joints coming apart. I’ve gotten a lot of compliments on how strong it is. I say go for it, it worked for me. Kevin
20 February 2018 at 3:22 am #477813I’ve used a few finishing nails as stops in the top of my bench. You can hammer them as low as you like, as long as you can get them back out to discard them later. You can also use what I believe is called a palm. Its a thin piece of wood with a V cut out of it. Your piece goes into the V as its being planed. Christopher Schwartz details it on his site. That works well too. Also look up a doe’s foot.
Kevin
20 February 2018 at 3:17 am #477809I’ve made the table and did the aprons both ways. The chisel is much faster. The coping saw seemed to take a long time. I prefer the chisel method for that much waste to remove and the coping saw for smaller amounts or perhaps more detailed work where a chisel doesn’t fit. Knocking big amounts away and cleaning up with a spokeshave worked really well for me.
Kevin
20 February 2018 at 3:12 am #477805Yes! I love my axe for taking down stock. Sometimes when there’s a little more than I’d like to plane down, but not enough to save after sawing, Axing it away makes quick work, if your grain will cooperate of course. But you can count me in for the axe. Love it. Cheers. Kevin.
19 February 2018 at 6:02 am #477024I’ve made several small wall cabinets and I have always dovetailed the bottom to the sides. My feeling was that this was the strongest application, especially because the bottom would be supporting the weight of whatever was inside. The dado would most likely be fine, but unless you add a mechanical fastner you are relying on the glue holding the end grain of one board to the long grain of the other. Not ideal in my book, but that’s the way Paul built the wall clock, although it doesn’t have to support things being put in it.
Anyways, my cabinets were built as a dovetailed carcass, and had another piece glued to the top and bottom, then had a face frame attached. worked well for me. Good luck and have fun
Kevin
27 December 2017 at 5:57 pm #419332Great job! Iād like to start this as my next project. It seems episode 1 starts with the seat portion already made. Am I missing something or does Paul show that part of the build somewhere?
Thanks,
Kevin3 September 2017 at 3:10 pm #315471Imagine taking a small board and planing it perfectly flat. Now take that small board and hold it with both hands. Now imagine twisting it slightly from end to end along the long axis of the board. At any one point along the length a straightedge would show the board to be flat across the width. But if you used a pair of winding sticks it would show that from end to end the two points would be on a different plane.
Paul shows this in detail on the video about preparing stock.
Kevin.
2 September 2017 at 3:51 pm #315443@power thank you for taking the time to respond. I always really appreciate it. With so many of us being somewhat self taught it’s always great to have as much information as possible.
I started to really get the hang of it when I learned that I was spending too much time in one spot, thus burning my previously applied shellac right back off.
I also learned that olive oil worked really well for me, and to not be quite too sparing with it.
Although I was in the Marine Corps, I never equated spit shining to French polishing. I should have thought of that earlier. Haha.
I think I’ll take the time to find the right materials for my rubber and see what that adds to the equation.
Thank you again.
Kevin1 June 2017 at 3:01 pm #312474I started watching the Joiners Toolbox series. In Episode 2, Paul deals with panels that have cupped on him. He explains it as completely normal and shows how to deal with it. If he deals with it perhaps that’s some peace of mind that it’s just part of woodworking.
Good luck. š
Kevin.30 May 2017 at 5:31 pm #312433Thank you for all the responses. I think what I am most interested in right now would be bowl turning with a hook type tool, on a spring Pole type lathe. I have seen a couple of websites that offer hand forged tools, most notable some made by a man named Ben Orford.
I’ve watched a few of his videos and he seems to know what he’s doing. It’s difficult to find these types of hook tools and they seem to be made by individual people or shops that are very small. Before I send them what would be to me a decent amount of money I thought I’d check around to see if anyone had used or bought these types of tools.
Here is a link of the type I’m referring to if anyone is interested in looking further into it.
http://woodsmithexperience.co.uk/shop/product/bowl-turning-hooks-set-of-three-unhandled/
Thank you again for the interest.
Kevin
29 May 2017 at 4:51 pm #312413I think that’s just the nature of wood unfortunately. Especially depending on what the original moisture content was, what the humidity of your working environment is, etc. I’ve gotten in the habit of wrapping my boards in plastic wrap when I’m done for the day to keep them from absorbing or letting go of any more moisture. I got the idea from Paul. He wrapped the panels for his drawer carcass to keep them that way. It worked for me.
Kevin
24 April 2017 at 5:55 pm #311380Thanks for the input everyone. Now I know what shellac to buy but I’m more confused about how to mix it. Haha.
Kevin.
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