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To put a fine point on it, if a fine coating of dust on everything in your garage is failure then- NO DUST COLLECTION DOES NOT WORK. Dust collectors, if properly sized and installed, can be very helpful with collection at the source. Air filters, is properly sized and installed can be very effective at cleaning ambient air. Neither and or both will ever be 100% effective. I would hate to see you spend lots of money to solve the problem only to be dissatisfied with the result. That being said, I recommend the use of both for your health.
I won’t try to give advise but here are some ideas that work for me. This is how I use my shop, I also have a large tool site job box that secures my tools when I want to lock up. My work bench is also the out-feed table for 2 table saws and a router table. The chisel caddies go on the bench when I am doing joinery work but are easily stored when I need the table clear. The chest of drawers store mostly measuring, marking and drilling items. The saw till is directly behind me as I face the workbench vice. One limitation that I face is that my workshop is 80% woodworking but it also houses mechanics, plumbing, and electrical tools.
I think one reason that you will get so many different answers is “storage” means different things to everyone. This is how my shop is set up most of the time but if I think “storage”- everything is locked up in the metal job site box. I would not want to dig in a tools chest for every tool while building a project. If I made a tool chest it would be to move tools not just house them. Hope that helps.Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Assuming a properly adjusted plane with a sharp blade any HARD is too HARD. I would try this procedure. Retract the blade into the plane to get no cut. Run your plane over the wood and insure the surface is not so rough that the front edge of the sole is catching. If this is the case you will need to plane across the grain to start flattening. If the sole moves freely along the grain insure you are planing with the grain. Slowly advance the blade until it just starts to cut- now stop advancing the blade. Your first couple passes will not remove much wood it should just kiss the top of the roughness. Each pass will remove more wood and the tool will need to be pushed firmer. If is starts to get so hard to push that your worried you may damage the plane you have too much blade out. I hope this helps.
This is just a follow up with some pictures. The walnut pictured was cut from the farm I grew up on and was sort of special to me. It did not yield much in the way of long wide usable wood but I was able to adjust my plan based upon what I could get. This is the reason for the rail and stile inside the rail and stile. I was very pleased with the book matched side panels. They are the home made veneer that I referenced in my previous post.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I think your on the right track. I would suggest that you start thinking of your slabs as 3 section. You should be able to rive some straight grain wood from both ends of each slab. You will probably not be able to get an 80 inch board and in trying to do so would probably ruin the usable sections. Consider cutting the slab into 3 sections and then riving out what you can. You should be able to get some 20-30 inch straight grain section to use as rails or stiles in a project. As for the middle section, if you have access to a large band saw I would consider re-sawing it to 1/8 or less and gluing to a stable substrate (veneer). This could yield some wild figured panels for your rails and stiles. How you proceed will depend on what you want out of the wood and what tools you have access to. These are just my thoughts.
Woodworking guilds have started to pop up all over the US. Search in your area for one. If you can find one but its to far away contact them anyway. The goal of most guilds is to promote the art not make money. They may be able to put you in touch with someone closer to you that would be willing to help.
A lot of good advise on how to avoid it in the future. To my eye it looks like its too deep to fix. I use epoxy often but in this case I would try an inlay/dutchman to repair it. Because of the dark knot in light wood the eye will will be drawn to that spot everytime you look at it.
Remember that perfect is the enemy of good,or something like that. My first question would be how wet was the wood when you started? If you started with green, wet, rough sawed lumber it is going to move every-time you do anything with it. If you don’t do anything with it it will move too. If it was reasonable air dry then I would consider how much bow and if that will effect your project in the long run. Some joinery can correct the bow, while some can not be cut on anything but dead flat wood. Just something to think about.
As far as your list goes- it looks good, and I will agree with most of the suggestions made. Some smaller chisels, clamps, router plane, (not going to touch the saw debate). The advise that I would offer is to take your time finding your tools. When I transitioned to hand tools from power tools I placed a couple large orders with LV, LN,etc… My LV order was so large that for customs reasons it had to be broken into several smaller orders. Now 8 years on- several of those tools are still in the box and have never been used. So consider what tools you need now based upon the project you are doing. If your not doing a furniture project, make some tools. You can never have to many marking gauges! Yard sales, estate auctions, Boot sales(UK) etc are your friend. If your a high school age person talk to every old person you see about woodworking. We are suckers and will often give you stuff!!!
Take time to learn your tools. With each tool there is a new skill set to be developed. THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR SHARP so your sharpening gear should be good quality and one of your early acquisitions.
Start with what you got and think about how you can make them work. Build your tool set as you go. -
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