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16 December 2020 at 12:29 am #690279
The Q&A section of the Amazon listing has an answer that states the denaturant is denatonium. From other sources, denatonium is said to be unbearably bitter at concentrations down 10 ppm. LD50 is in the neighborhood of 500 mg/kg if ingested orally. Since it’s used in hand sanitizer, I wouldn’t worry much about getting some on me.
14 February 2019 at 10:27 am #555083Is there a coating on the plane? The reason I wonder about this is wood and steel are right next to each other on the triboelectric scale so should not develop much static charge when rubbed together. As you have noted, only the one plane behaves this way.
13 January 2019 at 6:48 pm #554482As I posted earlier, I sharpen router plane blades mainly from the bottom with occasional minor touch up of the top, but I think my method still applies if you do sharpen mainly from the top.
There is enough of a clearance angle on most square edged router plane blades to put a micro bevel or small camber on the bottom. You could even hollow grind the bottom. I don’t do any of those things. The surfaces of router plane blades are small, and they sharpen up quickly without the extra fiddling.
12 January 2019 at 11:28 pm #554476All of my router plane blades are old Stanleys and can’t be disassembled. I first struggled with sharpening them, but I figured it out. I use the little diamond plates on plastic paddles on the top surface. The paddles are very handy, inexpensive compared to full size diamond stones, and are a worthwhile investment. After getting the tops of the router plane blades polished, I don’t touch the tops very often any more. I sharpen on the bottom side. It is like a plane iron or chisel–once you have the back flattened and polished, you can do most of your sharpening on the bevel side. Works for me.
5 January 2019 at 3:26 pm #554272In my experience, mixing species for a laminated bench top is fine. My own bench (8′ long, 24″ wide, no well) was built before video on the internet was a thing. The top is mainly southern yellow pine, but 5″ on each edge is ash. After 15 years of vigorous use, it has some character, but it is still in perfect working condition. It is still as flat as the day I first flattened it. The ash is more robust than a softer wood would be.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 4 months ago by Tim Ridolfi.
3 January 2019 at 12:34 am #554196If you’re ripping stock to size, 1/16″ is great as long as you’re on the waste side of the line. If you do need accuracy, planing off the last little bit is simple.
12 October 2018 at 3:20 pm #552685It may be that applying solvent directly to the handle is too aggressive. You can try vapor polishing. Just place the chisel along with a tray of solvent under an inverted glass bowl, and keep an eye on it.
10 October 2018 at 12:55 am #552616After I first built my bench, I placed it against the wall, and it was fine. Then I moved it out from the wall for a few years, and I like that also. Nowadays I have it back against the wall again, and I expect to keep it that way. Sometimes I have to throw a piece of plywooed over a pair of sawhorses for some tasks, but that is no big hassle. It’s all a matter of your methods of work and personal preferences, and those are likely to evolve over time.
As you noted, you can move things around. In my opinion, the most important element of planning is to maintain the versatility of your space. Another way to plan in versatility is to avoid dedicated fixtures for all of the lighting. Instead install some switched receptacles in the ceiling. Then you can move shop lights around without having to rewire.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 7 months ago by Tim Ridolfi.
14 September 2018 at 3:53 am #551434Hi Mark,
Of the choices given, I would go with the finer toothed hacksaw.
Screw hardness may vary from quite soft (brass) to quite hard (drywall screw).
Hardness of the material is only one of two criteria for selecting saw blade pitch. The other, and maybe more important, criterion is material thickness. Finer hacksaw blades will better deal with thinner material. More coarse blades will remove material faster, but are more likely to get caught up. The finer blade may take longer to get through the material, but it will work.
In my own shop, I would just take the screw over to the grinder and grind it off.
2 September 2018 at 8:04 pm #550828I have both wood and steel (Stanley 39) dado planes that work well. Just nail or clamp on a batten, and you can cut a dado very quickly. I have pretty good luck with nickers.
Back when dado planes were still made, I imagine one could buy one or two sizes or just buy a whole set. Using the next smaller size plane is an approach that I have used, and you can cut a small step in the end of the shelf board, or you can just use a bench plane to take a few shavings off the bottom as if you were doing final fitting of a raised panel.
Obviously, cutting a stopped dado requires some adjustment, but a dado plane can still come in handy. Cut as much as you can without going past the stop, and the nickers will give you score lines you need to finish up with chisel and router.
31 August 2018 at 5:20 pm #550806I use a block plane frequently. Paul mentions in a least one of his blog posts that he does also use a block plane occasionally. You don’t need a block plane for bench work, but it can be handy.
I think that block planes are indispensable for carpentry. Bench planes are not so handy when you don’t have a bench, and they don’t fit well in your tool pouch. In the shop, I will reach for a block plane to take off the fuzzies whenever I crosscut without a knife wall. I keep a block plane by the table saw for that purpose. In most situations where Paul shows using a bench plane one-handed, I will reach for a block plane instead. This is just a matter of preference, and like I said, you don’t need one for bench work.
I am fond of a Stanley 65, which I use most often, but I also often use a 101, sometimes for small parts or tight spaces, but mostly for for putting a sharp chisel point on my pencil.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 8 months ago by Tim Ridolfi.
28 August 2018 at 4:04 am #550656The most common sharpening error I see in old auger bits is that the spurs have been filed on the outside rather than the inside. When this happens, the clearance made by the spurs won’t pass the diameter of the main part of the bit.
8 April 2018 at 1:46 pm #520227Don’t give up, Aaron. Often split pieces will glue back together leaving an invisible repair. Even if you can see the repair (and you may be the only one that can see it), it’s just character and part of the story of the piece. At worst you just need to remake that one side. You can do it, man.
17 March 2018 at 1:50 pm #498954When your saw cut starts to get off the line, you must get the teeth on one side to cut more heavily so you can get back on track. If the saw is perpendicular to the wood, you have to twist the saw to get it to cut more heavily on one side. If you lay the saw down, instead of twisting the saw, you can bend the saw back toward the line.
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