Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
I used a “cheap” Empire combination square, stock was some snot-metal (wouldn’t file for more than couple of strokes). It was bang on the buck for the 90, but bit me in the ass on the 45, which was more like 46. Now try doing miters with that.. I tried straightening that by filing (ergo snot metal) and briefly thought about getting machinist to machine that, but in the end Starrett got a customer. Compared to previous, it’s really, really nice to use.
I actually have the same issue. Got a Somax saw set (“fine”) and on first use some teeth on the saw that I set felt like they broke. The set was on 10, on scale 4-12. On this set the hammers top part goes about a millimeter above where the rotating anvil ends, and it is quite sharp. However breaking points seem to be much lower.
I suspect that these teeth were set the other way previously and I just guessed wrong. The previous set wasn’t strong because that saw previously bound up when crosscutting 2×4’s. Currently it has really wide kerf and I’ve not had the heart to hammer set smaller (I guess most of the broken teeth will fall off then).
I’d say that’s really not worth the bother. Not scrub-planing, but fiddling with the veritas which should stay as a fine smoother.
Attached is an image of my scrub plane and its blade. The blade is apparently self-made, a bit thicker than Stanley blade; no chip breaker. Width is much less that for the #4 blade (the other blade in picture). It’s a rough tool but it likes to eat wood, does that quite fast. I’m quite sure that you can source some older “coffin” for much cheaper than a suitable blade for a veritas #4.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Found these guys at a Christmas fair today. There were more but these are the ones I’ve actual plan to use (I’m going to regret leaving those others there). One seems to be recently used or well stored, the tongue has more rust on the blade. Tongue blade is not really matched to body tongue width, could be retrofit. I also don’t have a matching groove blade (I do have a wooden groove plane but its only blade is quite a bit wider than what this produces).
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.I just purchased a Veritas carcass saw and was surprised to see in instructions a stern warning to not use beeswax (pdf:Â http://www.leevalley.com/US/html/05t0705ie.pdf). I’ve used it, not extensively but many times, with plane and also saws. On a shooting board wax tends to clump into harder patches, but my garage is ~2C currently so..
But now I think I’ll go with the can solution. We don’t have 3 in 1 as a brand here (WD40 is available but I’ve seen it as spray only; it’s also not an oil..). I’m thinking about using a no-brand “general oil” that’s quite runny, recommended for locks, airguns and general oiling.
I’m in the very beginning stages of this road, but I’m very excited about the chair build. I’ve done only a couple of the things in Pauls books and a couple of my own. I’m yet to make a first cut for the clock project (on my list though, wood and clockface already acquired from a fleamarked job; so halfway done, eh?).
I think I’m going to not only attempt it, but also finish it. It’ll be rough, crooked and nowhere near my own standards of what I want it to look like, but it’ll be done and I’ll have learned much more by doing it badly than by watching it being done 😛  😀
And to be completely honest, I kinda trust that Paul has his usual no-nonsense-and-anybody-can-do-this approach that he has shown in just about everything. It’ll be half as hard after it’s done.
Thanks everybody for suggestions!
I tried some alteration to my edge turning today, but still get these whiskers on the piece of birch that planes just fine. These are almost a millimeter long, become very visible when I drag finger across grain. Without these surface would be glorious, it already reflects light. Scraping fast-growth-pine tears it, largish chunks. I suppose that means the edge is simply not sharp but probably a bit rounded-over. Shavings are shaving-like, not dust; sometimes quite thick.
The fixes I tried today was doing the milling by keeping the file & stone in the vise. Also tried using sandpaper as final flattening stage (only had mirka up to 800, forgot to use an oilstone I actually have). Tried doing initial consolidation for many strokes (20+?). Tried turning the edge only to horizontal level (until fingernail does not catch from wrong direction).
I suspect that diamond plates that have had only relatively little action have donated some of the initial extra diamonds into the scraper. Now scraper being relatively hard metal has them embedded here and there and is maybe also scratching the burnisher. It might be that because the pressure on plate is so easily much greater with scraper the donation happens more easily. If this is so then refiling and using only sand/stone would help me achieve actually sharp pointy end 🙂  Now if only the burnisher would polish back up with the autoglym chrome polisher 🙂
I will continue exercises, there must be a solution.
At an other forum there has been discussion about the Narex (8105 model) chisels and consensus was that they’re good bang/buck.
I don’t know if they still practice it, but a shopkeeper here in Finland was in contact with Narex and found out that the initial bevel is achieved with a sandbelt machine. So the sharpest point has likely overheated and will not stay sharp long. The fix has been to sharpen them initially to lower angle (30deg?) which effectively removes the part that won’t stay sharp. He says that after his customers do this there was no more complaints.
I have only one other chisel (Sorsakoski 🙂 and don’t use that much so can’t tell anything else but that they seem to work well, especially when just sharpened. Their backs were mostly easily flattened too, only the widest (40mm) gave me any trouble.  I maybe should sand the backs edge a tiniest bit, it cuts skin when used for paring.
The diamond plates take some initial conditioning, don’t put your best and finest blade on it before the dullest junker has taken initial roughness off. The manufacturer recommends that too. Manufacturing process leaves plates with spots where grit is much coarser that nominal value tells, these chip off and plate becomes what the box says.
That said, my experience with DMT has been that on Fine plate I see wavy undulations on stone (visible when metal shaving colored the plate) but seems flat. Extra Fine is nice and works as advertised. Extra coarse is coarse and just don’t appear to eat metal that much after initial scratching. The XC plate is bald in one spot with few visible diamond particles embedded. I’m not quite sure what to think of it.
However the full Pauls sharpening process (XC -> F -> XF -> leather + autoglym polishing compound) gives me a workable edge that eats wood nicely. I’m new to woodworking and sharpening so it might be I’m doing something wrong with XC.
-
AuthorPosts