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7 September 2016 at 1:23 pm #139978
hi Rick sad to say I think you caught the collecting bug 🙂 Firstly the bad news… Stanley stuck with its own screw threads and they are bastard sizes (means you can’t go buy a tap for any original thread). The good news is that Stanley sells spare part kits. Usually you can buy a secondhand frog (if you lived closer I’d give you one, but its a long swim to the Philippines). The Nitty Gritty is that with all the different models there seems to be only 2 frogs for the Bailey type and the difference is in the width, 2″ or 2 3/8″. Ok, 5 and below 2″ and 6and up 2 3/8″ (except the 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 which are the larger 2 3/8″. So don’t turn down a frog from a different size if you see at a good price. You should try go to your local car repair and ask if they can heli-coil for you. That is easiest of all if they can. The plastic handles were made after a certain date to keep costs down so don’t worry about that unless you really want to say that its earlier than the 60s. Ask yourself what you want the plane to do! If it is only for planing and that is rare LOL, find where the screw should be (when adjusted) and epoxy it in. The clamp iron can still be opened for honing without turning the screw just to get you going. When you see spares at a good price then buy and replace the frog but be warned if you buy a secondhand 5 for the frog you WILL want to renovate that.
Best wishes
Sadlysenile- This reply was modified 7 years, 8 months ago by SadlySenile. Reason: Clearer instructions
31 August 2016 at 2:22 pm #139821Sorry tenjin, but I thought I better also add when using your acid bath you are stripping away any oxide coat and getting down to bare metal. It will in no time flat start the rusting again without any protection. I don’t use WD40 for this even though I use it often it does not seem to have any lasting coating properties that I can see. Use a mineral oil or a wax. What you are trying to do is keep out the environment from your newly cleaned metal. As soon as you have the metal cleaned to a standard you like, coat it. You may even find that you have fingerprints in rust on your new surfaces if you wait. Some people have what used to be called acid fingers. This is due to the salts in their sweat. A long time back this was not such a problem due to the copious use of Tallow (an animal fat). Where Paul Sellers advocates the 3-in-one oil Tallow was used previously
31 August 2016 at 12:13 pm #139816Personally better to use White Vinegar! Con side is the smell. Pro side is around an hour or two wait in the bath against 3 days. Basically you are doing the same thing ie putting your metal in an acid bath. At least either Coke or vinegar have plenty other uses. I have read many times that the best toilet cleaner is Coke. Although Coke is not so good for sprinkling on your chips(French Fries). Go ahead use these very dilute acid liquids they will remove less metal than abrasives
24 January 2014 at 5:31 pm #26462I’m not sure where you are taking this. Try YouTube and type in Hewing at the search prompt.
For the axe I think this is probably a status thing. If you need to buy a Rolls Royce to take the kids to school, go ahead but compare the price of a wetterings axe with the price of a bandsaw.
Then you can only split with the grain, so you need a broad axe to make your board acceptably flat. For me a car boot sale item is fine as long as it holds a decent cutting edge long enough for what I need. I have to make the point though that I use a workbench that I am not afraid to use. I was looking at the router table cabinet on Marc Sommerfelds you tube videos. This is supposed to be a tool but for me it would have to live in my main room in the house. Over £100 just for drawer slides! Keeping in line with the topic. I am going to make a house in a foriegn country and if I can get tree trunks at a good price then I am convinced I want to try hewing. That said it will be more than 1 axe and the axe blades will have tool steel welded to the shape I desire. You can look at it from different views. Do you want something that will do the job or do you want tools in the workshop that you invite friends to come and see?
As for the rip saw the short answer is no. Even wonderful saws need sharpening. If you do not intend to file your own then go buy modern saws in bulk at your diy centre. Here you can buy in packs of 5 for under £20 I imagine that equates to same in $s, and you then throw them away. Although it is not impossible to resharpen them, but putting set to then is difficult (the teeth crack) because the teeth are hardened for cutting engineered boards29 June 2013 at 1:08 am #14316My two penneth is that it is not as bad as it looks. For me to can rip it in half then all of a sudden you only have half the wind, but in 2 pieces. Do not take it that one end is flat and the other twisted. It has two high corners diagonally and two low corners. Plane out the high you will end up with only half the scrap that it first seems, also it will take out most of the rounded corners. Get the top or bottom flat on both pieces. Scribe your other sides flat at the sides with a marking gauge or poor mans router from the flattened faces and plane down to the lines. Do the same with the sides getting them square and straight as possible. What have you to lose? Don’t give in. If you don’t get what you want you are no worse off and you got more practice. Look at a forum called Magic 3. You will see if you want winding sticks any length even 8 feet long no problem from any wood you have, in fact any material you can happily cut. It all depends if you want to cry about it and give in or if you want to get bloody minded and say you are going to win one way or another. Personally I don’t like to lose to a piece of wood
Best of luck with whatever you choose, but ask yourself does it have to be 4″ thick to be stable platform to work on? Measure it, my guess it is undersize when you buy your wood. All you are looking for is a solid top that will take the hammer that working on it will give. It is wood with changes in humidity it will move sometime no matter what wood you use. The point I think to this bench is that it get rigidity from the aprons and the cross members at the “H” frames Keep that in mind, but sooner or later you will have to plane again anyway to re-flatten. Hopefully many years down the line25 May 2013 at 12:43 am #12496I hope you get good use from your rebate plane Ken. Maybe when you work out how to use it you will let me know. I am sure it must be me, but to start what happens to the screw adjuster if you use the blade in the forward position? There is no screw or lever adjust to align the cutting edge of the blade to the sole. If you don’t get the alignment right, after the first pass the sole is following a surface that is not parallel to the outside face of the piece. So you clamp a block to the outside of the piece and use the side face. wow that saves using the fence. So you take off the 2 rods and the fence. Then you have to take off the depth stop. Now you are planing to your scribed lines so not much problem for depth. You are going to finish with a hand router anyway. Back to how to lap so the blade cuts up to the line left by the nicker and is still parallel to the sole. Now another problem the shoulder is not really wonderful because the side of the plane dragged. For me it is a roughing tool for hogging out at best but way slower than a chisel which I believe you will finish the shoulder with anyway. I imagine this is where Paul would say your still looking for the right router Collet. Sorry for all this rain as I do think it is me at fault but I did want to share what I found.
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