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Is your Irwin one of those induction hardened saws? You can actually sharpen them with diamond stones thin enough to fit in between the teeth such as the EZE Lap diamond hones that Paul uses. Here are the one’s I mean: http://www.amazon.com/EZE-LAP-PAK-Color-Coded-Diamond/dp/B000UVS62S
I realized I didn’t have a decent panel saw, but I did have one of those induction hardened ones that was dull so I gave it a shot and it worked well. Just follow the tooth bevel angles the best you can. It won’t make the saw last forever since only the first 3/16″ or something of the plate is induction hardened and eventually you’ll hone that away, but you can get several more uses out of it.
Greg’s got it as far as I can tell. Barn augers are like this too. These are just an older style of auger bit where the spurs are reversed. Instead of scribing the hole ahead of the cutting edges, they cut after. So you need a nice cutting bevel on that part and the regular chisel part that cuts the bottom of the hole. The problem is they meet at a corner so you have the extra difficulty of getting that corner crisp. They won’t cut as nicely as a bit with spurs that cut first but will do a pretty good job if sharp.
Before screws were made by machine they were cut by hand with a file so you can improve/recut the threads on the snail if you’re very careful. You can polish them with some folded over wet/dry sandpaper or by putting some rubbing or polishing compound in a pilot hole and running the snail in and out.
Juan I have a similar need to reduce noise as much as possible as my shop time tends to be when the rest of the family is sleeping. What I do is find an alternate method. For mortices, for example, I bore the mortice out with an auger and then pare with a chisel. I know it’s not the traditional technique and it probably takes a little longer, but it’s a lot quieter. I would be interested if you find a quieter mallet that works well though. Soundproofing is probably going to be my only long term solution short of a separate shop building.
A number of people on Lumberjocks use the NHplaneparts guy Scott mentioned quite a bit and have been happy. I think the worst was a little slow service a couple times.
The other option is to find a frog off of a broken plane of a similar type. If you go to estate sales, garage sales, car boot sales or the like you can sometimes fine them very cheap. If the plane body is broken you can get it cheap and salvage the frog.
If you don’t have luck finding a vintage pair, these are the one’s I got: http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-SAWSET.XX
I’ve sharpened almost all my saws, but haven’t needed to set any yet, so I can’t really tell you how good they are, but they are sold by reputable retailers so they are at least decent.
Oh and here’s a scan of an old 78 instruction manual that shows all the parts.
You’re missing the depth stop, fence and fence rods, and the nicker it looks like. Unfortunately it’s cheaper to look for another complete one than it is to try to get all the parts to complete this one. Especially when the nose is broken. The nose being broken doesn’t matter that much since one rarely uses this plane in the bullnose anyway. Complete Stanley 78s often go for about $30 here in the US, not sure about in Europe.
Another option is to just clean it up and use it the way it is and it will be similar to a wooden rabbet plane with no fence or depth stop. You could also fabricate your own rods and fence if you wanted to. The depth stop would be a little trickier because it has a ridge that rides in that vertical groove on the plane’s right side to keep it plumb.
Oh and Made in England means 30-40 years ago sounds reasonable.
Lots of options. One is the holdfast and batten: http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=1434 and some creative use of clamps and wedges can even mean you don’t need the holdfast. You can even make your own wedged wagon vise and leg vise.
Also you can make your own makeshift bench out of most any sturdy or not so sturdy desk as long as it has some sturdy parts to it. Add construction adhesive and maybe some cross boards for strength and you’ll have a lot better makeshift work surface than you would have thought. If you don’t have anything currently, look on craigslist or other places where students or other people throw out broken or unwanted furniture.
Wesley, what size plane is this? If it’s a #5/jack plane don’t spend more time flattening it. Only a plane used for smoothing and final flattening is worth that much effort. Also Handyman line planes weren’t quite up to the higher end standards so you may not be able to get it to be perfectly tuned without a lot of effort and skill anyway. Can still make a decent roughing tool though.
Thanks Robin, that’s fantastic. What was the trick you used in the other thread to get just the buy it now results? I couldn’t pick it out from the html link.
I do find though that the best deals are sometimes from people that don’t know what they have. They list it as plain, or some other misspelling, or the wrong category or something and so very few people see it. When you do find them you can get lucky. Your search method will really help find a lot of them though.
Yeah Eddie, it’s a scam. They pull projects from other woodworking websites and pass them off as their own. I’m not sure if you get a DVD or not if you pay, but people that have tried to go after them for copying their work and not paying for it have found a lot of shady dealing and hidden foreign shell corporation type stuff.
Google Ted’s Woodworking there are videos out there about people digging into this scam.
Which ones do you have Florian? I’ve also read the Woodright’s Guide and that seems to be more of a general overview while the others that I’ve seen seem to be more oriented towards providing details about projects from different season’s shows. So each of the books would be different enough to be worth it I would think.