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I think the problem you might have is the bending of the top across its width (from changes in humidity along the year). AFAIK this is the problem that breadboard ends is supposed to solve.
So you either have to use breadboard ends or make some sort of support at least across the width of the table.
If you attach underneath a tapered pair of cross members as suggested above, do not glue them to the top as the expansion/contraction will result in cracks. You can screw them in ensuring that the hole for the screw is larger than the screw diameter so it can accomodate the movement or you can use turnbuttons (https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/videos/turnbuttons/)Good luck!
I also vote for building your own bench, following Paul’s videos. Confidence comes with practice.
By the time you will finish, your knowledge would have improved a lot.
And you will have a bench to work on and I think some money left to buy some nice tools.You can read this blog where Paul talks about painting projects:
https://paulsellers.com/2012/08/questions-answered-painting-my-projects/I use the eze lap stones (you can get them from fine-tools.com) and I didn’t see any reason to glue them. I have a backing board with recesses made for a tight fit and the stones stay in place without any glue.
I can also take them out easily with a scredriver if needed.I made my guide blocks out of some beech I bought to use as firewood.
I’ve seen that European beech is rated with one of the highest Janka Hardness among domestic hardwoods:
http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/european-beech/So far I have only used a wide 18mm blade but I don’t understand how the blade can cut through the guide. The way I set it up, the teeth of the blade are not touching at all the wooden blocks part of the guide. Just the body of the blade which is narrower than the teeth (due to the teeth set) is sliding between the wooden blocks and I don’t think it can cut them. The back of the blade is rolling on bearings.
Question: how much dust do you produce with one blade before having to change it? I think I filled up a drawer (about 20 cubic decimeters) full of dust and already the blade feels a little dull. I bought the blade at tuffsaws.co.uk.
I have to put myself together to finish the cover. So far I only finished the front. And I see there is quite some fine dust escaping at the back and at the top.
I also have a Festool MIDI vac but at 5Euros/bag, and with the amount of dust produced by the bandsaw, it will not be cheap to operate.
I have seen a guy who installed a brush to remove the dust off the blade as it goes up (the brush is mounted under the table). Have you considered that to reduce the amount of dust climbing up on the blade?
I’m thinking that a combination between the brush and the vac will allow the maximum amount of dust to be collected in the drawer underneath and the remaining dust in the vac (such that the vac doesn’t fill up very quickly).
nicolae
Hi Mick,
There is also the do it yourself option.
I was in the same dilemma about 6 months ago, and even worse, living in Belgium, is not easy to find a bandsaw at a decent price.
So I made one following the plans I purchased from woodgears.ca. It’s not completely finished but I’m very happy how it works already. I never used another bandsaw so I cannot say how it compares with a commercial one.
Nicolae
NicolaeHello Diego,
You are more than welcome to come to see it (and everyone who is in Leuven/Belgium neighborhood). In fact I’m quite curious to know from someone who has used a bandsaw in their life, how mine performs.
I mounted the covers and the blade guards so it’s safe to operate. I’m currently making the stand to bring it up to a comfortable height. The stand also works as a dust collector.
I see now that the machines are very effective at producing dust… If a bandsaw with a thin blade makes so much dust I’m horrified even thinking what a tablesaw does.
nicolae
I’m building the 16″ bandsaw: https://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/homemade.html
I started in January working some evenings and some weekends. The frame is made by laminating more than 70 pieces and I had to manually cut and plane each and every of them out of two wooden pallets and other scrap I found.
After each layer, I planed the frame flat so I can start the next layer (5-6 layers in total). This took me more than 3 months (time in which I learnt to sharpen the plane as well as the saw I was using). If you buy already dimensioned lumber I think it will be much easier.The built is more or less straightforward. I was afraid of the adjustment needed for the blade to track properly but being out of wood there is nothing that a good sharp plane cannot do.
good luck!
nicolaeDo you think a 4-5 feet diameter trunk will dry in 2 years?
I read somewhere that it needs one year per inch if it’s protected from rain, which I guess yours is not.If you do attempt, please let us know the result because I’m also interested in doing similar things…
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