Assembly Table – episode 4

Assembly Table 4

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Paul shows how he would go about fitting a plywood top with rebated edging. He starts by jointing or jacking the handcut edge of the ply, showing how best to plane long edges. He then rebates the edging material and then rips it to width. It will be fitted in the next episode.

17 Comments

  1. R A D on 11 November 2015 at 5:40 pm

    … Let’s see how square we are, Spanish “escuadra”… Funny.

  2. Augusto Campos on 11 November 2015 at 6:32 pm

    Hi Master Paul,
    Thanks for the great content you provide.

    Q: I hear some people say that you have to have a separate plane for plywood, is that true?

    Thanks
    Augusto Campos (Portugal)

  3. danw on 11 November 2015 at 8:04 pm

    What’s the name of the plane Paul uses to cut the rebate (make/model)?

  4. orkaniusz on 11 November 2015 at 8:09 pm

    Hi Paul,
    I would like to ask what saw did you use for cutting the plywood?

    Thanks,
    Piotr

  5. odysseus on 11 November 2015 at 9:43 pm

    Great lesson on how to do rebates. I have struggled with them because as I now know I was working incorrectly using the edge rather than the big expanse of the board creating the sorts of problems Paul described. Should have dawned on me, but it was so much easier just to vice it edge on that I let this dictate my approach. Always a good feeling when the cause and solution to a problem comes. Thank You!

  6. lutejones on 11 November 2015 at 9:51 pm

    Nice episode. As always is a pleasure to see Paul’s “rail guided hands” with the fillister plane and the panel saw, they don’t tilt a mm off track, hehe try that the first time you use them!! Practice make perfect though.
    I laughed a good bit with “good for my heart, I think. I’ll tell you when I’m 75” hahaha.
    Mateo

  7. knightlylad on 11 November 2015 at 11:37 pm

    Thank you for the lesson.

  8. ballinger on 12 November 2015 at 12:19 am

    Haha love the dry humour – if you need more of a workout plane the other edge. If you need a break… well you’re not going to get one because you have to rip down the board now.

  9. adrian on 12 November 2015 at 1:56 am

    Bravo! No real need for a table saw. Just a great opportunity for good exercise and enjoying the working of soft woods.
    Loved the fact of sizing plywood with hand tools, virtually unheard of amongst modern day carpenters. But it can be done , and done well.
    Thanks again Paul for demonstrating that basic woodworking does not have to be all machine work.

  10. Derek Long on 12 November 2015 at 2:00 am

    I really liked this episode. For some reason it reminded me of the old clock series. Just basic skills and fun to watch.

    I’ve sawn and planed plywood for tops for my steel tool cabinets and bench gadgets like shooting boards. I even made a plywood top with edgebanding and an architect’s board cover to put on an old Craftsman tool cabinet on wheels for my wife as a craft caddy. It’s not a very fun task because the edges break so easy, but the stuff saws and planes with just ordinary finer toothed rip saws and ordinary planes. That’s all I had and knew no better, and it worked fine. No fancy stuff needed.

  11. Chad Magiera on 12 November 2015 at 6:07 am

    I’m going to have to go back and find the “Making your own Rabbet Plane” video. I don’t own one but I would love to make my own. Thanks for the honest lesson… I’m glad I’m not the only person who occasionally runs into the vise!

  12. justinwt on 14 November 2015 at 10:31 pm

    So that’s why I get those stair steps with my Sargent combination plane! I had the iron flush with the edge of the plane body.
    I always learn something new with each video. Thanks Paul & Co.!

  13. David R. on 16 April 2016 at 4:46 pm

    I wonder how to best go about using 7 boards, each 14,3mm wide and 27mm thick as a table top for a garden table. I’m a little concerned, that the ends will wobble and distort as well as the outermost boards will not be supported well enough. Any suggestions would be very welcome!

    Also I made the mistake to use a board with pith for the aprons, which split on assembly. Had to redo it.

    • David R. on 22 April 2016 at 3:18 pm

      Thinking about it, two options come to mind:

      1) breadboard ends, mortised and fixed with drawbore pins
      2) screwed support from below, at the ends and in the middle going through the apron, with or without putting the support in a housing dado

      I still hope there is a less time consuming but still acceptably long term solution to this. I don’t see how I can glue them given it will stand in the rain.

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