1. That was a lovely result! But I want more answers!

    Why is it so difficult to achieve this effect by just staggering the ends?
    Why do you make a knife wall in the end grain when you usually don’t?
    Could you not mark the second piece by laying the first flat on top of the second?

    Thank you for continuing to show us such excellent examples to try to follow.

    1. Hi,

      Paul says:
      There are many ways to achieve this, I’ve just shown you the easiest way. Doing it your suggested way you have many issues such as slippage during glue up, misalignment to to both ends of the panel.

      In regards to the knife, I was using hardwood which I always use the knifewall for. Only on soft woods will I use a pencil on the end grain.

      Yes you could, these are all great suggestions but they come with built in flawed perceptions. For instance, laying one board flat on top of the other is not as exact as laying it in the precise position it will be when it enters the counter part.

      Kind Regards,

  2. I have been watching many videos, and I have thoroughly enjoyed each one.

    I do have a question as to the reasoning behind the bevel-down chopping. In every video about dovetails, the bevel-up with a steep angled approach has been quite consistent. Why the different type of chop into the knife-wall on this project?

    Scott Stephens

    1. Hi Scott,

      At 10:36 Paul says: ‘Bevel down again this time, this will cause an undercut and helps to sever the fibres and split them along the grain’. He’s taking advantage of the solidity of the bench with a direct downward chop. And the reality of the board being very wide, would need under support because it can’t really be clamped too well in the vise.

      Kind Regards,

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