Chess Board: Episode 1
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For the making of the Chess Board, we are focusing on hand tool methods showing how to cut and plane stock to thickness. Paul shows a couple of techniques that help to guarantee sizing. Once cut to size, the sections can be glued up to provide the contrasting strips.
That jig is definitely going on my to do list.
Looks like a new saw Paul. What brand is it?
Believe its a Spear and Jackson Traditional, which he touches on in the following blog post:
Anyone know what sorta oil goes in the tomato can? Silly question probably…
I believe it is just machine oil , I use Singer 3 in 1 sewing machine oil in mine , but any sort of mchine oil is good
Marvel Mystery oil would also probably work well.
Thanks Glenn, ehisey! Much appreciated
Paul s using 3-in-One general purpose oil.
Sewing Machine oil is actually much thinner than 3-in-One.
3-in-One should never be used on sewing machines – although it does say it’s suitable, it’s not. UNLESS you’re in the USA and using blue-cap 3-in-One, which is thinner than the UK red-cap variety.
I hope that clears it up.
3-in-one light machine oil has worked well for me.
As mentioned below he has blogged on the saw. It is a new made Spear and Jackson he has been testing for as a recommendation option for new hand tool would workers.
Thanks Paul and crew for this, I really like this new project, I also learned something new in how you ripped alternating ends after 10 or so strokes. I also liked the jigs you made, all in all this will be a fun project. I could see making a cutting board this way also yousing thicker wood of course.
The Butchers chopping block is a classic example of a large square endgrain cutting board
I agree with Steve. Thanks, Paul; I tried a chessboard as my first project after “conversion” to hand tools. Had I known what you just taught me, it likely would not have been a disaster! – dick
Wow, you did a chessboard as your first hand tool project. Fair play to ya, that’s a challenge. We learn much more through mistakes than getting it right I have to say (or so I keep telling myself).
Very good lesson Paul and crew. I’ll start working stock tonight. 🙂
Paul, I also use homemade wooden cauls to keep a wide glue-up flat. However, I recommend placing wax paper under them to prevent any excess glue from making them a permanent part of the project. If you use “black” pipe clamps, the wax paper also protects the wood from discoloring. cheers, bill.
Great start to this project. I have always had a hard time ripping wood, but I will try the alternating ends after 10 strokes method. Looks like a terrific idea! Thanks.
Thank you for the lesson.
Great lesson on getting all the strips down to the same thickness.
Is there another lesson the explains how to plane all the strips down to the same width and so that they’re all square? Is it simply just a matter of putting them in the vise together all at once, flush with each other and planing them altogether all at once?
Yes, I was concerned about how to get all the strips down to exact equal width prior to glue up also. I may try to make a jig with 1.75″ high rails for the plane to ride on. I am still not the best at jointing a perpendicular edge with a plane so something like this will ensure equal width and squareness of each piece.
Thank you. Using the jig is a great idea. If you do give that a try, please let me know how it goes. I won’t be getting around to this project for a little while.
I made a simple shooting board out of 3 pieces of scrap wood. Used a side fence positioned 1.75″ from edge and had a stop at the top while I used #4 hand plane for the edge. It worked out very well. Pieces are now all at 1.75″ and all have square edges for glue up.
I get the picture. Thanks very much for your help.
The same idea came to my mind. Thank you for confirming it.
Lovely stuff. Your new workshop is a little brighter than the old one. Thanks for everything you do lads
I will definitely be attempting this project. It’s been on my “bucket list” for years.
You saw straighter than an archer shooting an arrow
I used to hate cutting with a hand saw, all my cuts came out looking like the letter C. Just lately though with your teachings and stressing not to hurry, I have finely learned to cut a straight line. Truly, I can’t believe it after all these years. And what’s more, it wasn’t hard!
Is it possible to use the wedge system to do the glue ups in this first stage? I mean, as a clamp alternative! Thank you very much!
I finally got around to this project 8 years after I saw the initial video. From what I gather it’s important to square the original stock first before splitting it down because then you have at least one flat side on each strip. If you don’t have one side flat the. Using thicknessing jig becomes a problem because the strip will not sit on the bed of the jig properly – it can wobble etc. Of course I learned this the hard way because I skipped the initial step of squaring and flattening the thicker boards
I built Paul’s jig and designed for 2″ to 2 3/16″ squares. I use either a #6 plane or the Veritas low angle plane. This jig makes planing long narrow pieces or small pieces under 2 1/4″ a snap as it holds them in place, provides a planing stop and depth control. I use small wedges rather than a screw to keep the work on place