1. Paul s using 3-in-One general purpose oil.
          Sewing Machine oil is actually much thinner than 3-in-One.
          3-in-One should never be used on sewing machines – although it does say it’s suitable, it’s not. UNLESS you’re in the USA and using blue-cap 3-in-One, which is thinner than the UK red-cap variety.
          I hope that clears it up.

  1. Thanks Paul and crew for this, I really like this new project, I also learned something new in how you ripped alternating ends after 10 or so strokes. I also liked the jigs you made, all in all this will be a fun project. I could see making a cutting board this way also yousing thicker wood of course.


  2. I agree with Steve. Thanks, Paul; I tried a chessboard as my first project after “conversion” to hand tools. Had I known what you just taught me, it likely would not have been a disaster! – dick

    1. Wow, you did a chessboard as your first hand tool project. Fair play to ya, that’s a challenge. We learn much more through mistakes than getting it right I have to say (or so I keep telling myself).

  3. Paul, I also use homemade wooden cauls to keep a wide glue-up flat. However, I recommend placing wax paper under them to prevent any excess glue from making them a permanent part of the project. If you use “black” pipe clamps, the wax paper also protects the wood from discoloring. cheers, bill.

  4. Great lesson on getting all the strips down to the same thickness.

    Is there another lesson the explains how to plane all the strips down to the same width and so that they’re all square? Is it simply just a matter of putting them in the vise together all at once, flush with each other and planing them altogether all at once?

    1. Yes, I was concerned about how to get all the strips down to exact equal width prior to glue up also. I may try to make a jig with 1.75″ high rails for the plane to ride on. I am still not the best at jointing a perpendicular edge with a plane so something like this will ensure equal width and squareness of each piece.

        1. I made a simple shooting board out of 3 pieces of scrap wood. Used a side fence positioned 1.75″ from edge and had a stop at the top while I used #4 hand plane for the edge. It worked out very well. Pieces are now all at 1.75″ and all have square edges for glue up.

  5. I used to hate cutting with a hand saw, all my cuts came out looking like the letter C. Just lately though with your teachings and stressing not to hurry, I have finely learned to cut a straight line. Truly, I can’t believe it after all these years. And what’s more, it wasn’t hard!

  6. I finally got around to this project 8 years after I saw the initial video. From what I gather it’s important to square the original stock first before splitting it down because then you have at least one flat side on each strip. If you don’t have one side flat the. Using thicknessing jig becomes a problem because the strip will not sit on the bed of the jig properly – it can wobble etc. Of course I learned this the hard way because I skipped the initial step of squaring and flattening the thicker boards

  7. I built Paul’s jig and designed for 2″ to 2 3/16″ squares. I use either a #6 plane or the Veritas low angle plane. This jig makes planing long narrow pieces or small pieces under 2 1/4″ a snap as it holds them in place, provides a planing stop and depth control. I use small wedges rather than a screw to keep the work on place

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