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Console Table: Episode 2

Console Table Episode 2 Keyframe

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The legs are probably the most unique feature of this project and in this episode Paul assembles the flat stock of each side of the leg into the assembled leg component. Paul makes a feature of the fact that the leg is two pieces by making a distinct v-groove on each side of the corner and then tapers and glues the leg pieces together.

30 Comments

  1. allaninoz on 3 July 2019 at 3:02 pm

    Hello,
    I recently joined two pieces together in a similar configuration. I used a tongue and grove plane to form the the tongue which I then cut into a series of tenons that fit into mortice holes on the other piece (probably over thought the process having now seen this)
    My question is, have I left myself with any unforeseen pitfalls by doing it this way.
    Thanks.

    • Izzy BergerTeam Member on 5 July 2019 at 3:59 pm

      Hi,

      Paul says:
      No, there is no pitfall to it, it really was not necessary. Long grain to long grain is one of the strongest unions between components you can get in woodworking.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  2. bytesplice on 3 July 2019 at 3:09 pm

    Thanks Paul,
    I wasn’t sure I was going to enjoy another “table” project, but this is turning out to be very interesting.
    I have to pay a premium for 8/4 and 12/4 stock for a ‘traditional’ square leg, so this alternative may come in handy for a more modern style table, desk, etc.
    I’m thinking of using this alternative for a sideboard, with groves in the legs for a frame-and-panel sides. Would you have any recommendations or concerns that I should consider?

    • Izzy BergerTeam Member on 5 July 2019 at 4:00 pm

      Hi,

      Pauls says:

      I don’t think so, should work fine.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  3. kisser on 3 July 2019 at 3:39 pm

    Where did the centering plug cutters come from? Want some!
    Thanks mike (kisser)

  4. jarkema on 3 July 2019 at 5:20 pm

    I understand the “how” of making he V-grooves. What I don’t understand is the “why”. Is it purely aesthetics?

    • Tom Davies on 3 July 2019 at 5:52 pm

      Joining the two pieces of wood will result in a discontinuity, by doing this, we take that and turn it into a decoractive feature

    • Izzy BergerTeam Member on 5 July 2019 at 4:00 pm

      Hi,

      Paul says:
      It was traditionally commonplace to hide the glue line by making a feature, ie the V joint.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  5. Antonio Santos on 3 July 2019 at 11:32 pm

    I don’t understand why is necessary to screw the two pieces of each leg. Won’t always be a mark of the plug, by watching carefully? Why not just using glue?

    • Flemming Aaberg on 4 July 2019 at 9:52 am

      At 18:15 Paul mentions that you don’t have to use screws at all because it’s long grain to long grain. I’ve made legs this way before and glue alone is usually sufficient.

    • dsuilmann on 4 July 2019 at 4:36 pm

      You can. I recall Paul mention that during the video — just glue the legs together.
      The trade-off is a complete dependence on a good clamp… just a bit more difficult due to the leg taper. Your choice.

    • Izzy BergerTeam Member on 5 July 2019 at 4:01 pm

      Hi Antonio,

      Paul says:
      Long grain to long grain gluing is fine, I would be perfectly happy with that but I don’t see what’s wrong with just using plugs because I can carry on working on the project and don’t have to wait for the glue to dry. Secondary fixing like this are perfectly acceptable.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  6. joeleonetti on 4 July 2019 at 3:13 am

    Thanks Paul. All kinds of new little techniques in this video. What are you using to hold the card scrapers? It looks like some sort of clever inexpensive device.

  7. ted clawton on 4 July 2019 at 6:31 am

    What is the name of the drill bit Paul used to cut the screw-hole plugs? Couldn’t hear in the video because he laid down wood or something on the table; this should be added to the tool list.

    Also, I’m a little confused, because the project drawing on pages 1 and 2 show what I thought were end-grain lines in the legs that I thought indicated some sort of special tenons; what are those in the drawings?

    Although I’m a little dissapointed in the glue-and-screw-and-plug approach, if it’s good enough for Paul it’s certainly good enough for me, and I still can’t wait to see how he does the continuous grain drawer, and this is still something that I can’t wait to make. Thanks, Paul, for designing something specifically with us in mind, since the boards a quite a bit more affordable than the square stock.

    Thanks in advance.

  8. SharpPencil on 9 July 2019 at 10:56 pm

    Paul rather than a vee joint ….why not use an edge bead

    • ted clawton on 10 July 2019 at 1:45 am

      I was thinking the same thing, kind of like they do with tongue-and-groove paneling. I’m guessing it’s because molding planes aren’t among the “essential” tools.

      Those whose “plow” plane is the veritas combo plane can use its bead blades; I think purists would scoff at using a plow plane as a molding plane, but I’ve used it to my satisfaction in previous projects.

    • Izzy BergerTeam Member on 12 July 2019 at 2:54 pm

      Hi,

      Paul says:
      An edge bead would have been perhaps an old fashioned method and we were making a modern table. The bead would have made the table old fashioned, not what we wanted.

      Kind Regards,
      Izzy

  9. abtuser on 12 July 2019 at 4:00 am

    Nice design on the legs. I found it helpful to erase pencil marks with an eraser before planing, scraping, or sanding to clean up my parts surfaces. I don’t seem to have to work as hard to remove them with the other tools once erased.

  10. Jason McFarlane on 12 July 2019 at 6:47 am

    Really enjoying this series but wish there were some better close-ups of the V-grooves. I don’t quite understand that part.

  11. 5ivestring on 23 October 2019 at 4:34 am

    I came up with a very easy way to add that cosmetic break line. I used my marking guage I use for laying out mortis holes. I have the one with a sharp wheel instead of the pin. It laid out a perfect line. (Used the first line to set my distance). After I made 3 passes with the mortis tool, then I just simply took my marking knife and very gently ran it down the length of the grove. After 3 passes, I was able to add more pressure. Then I simply ran the knife again with a slight bevel to either side.

    It looks perfect and no worries about my saw jumping the track. Maybe 2 or 3 minutes per leg.

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