1. Hello,
    I recently joined two pieces together in a similar configuration. I used a tongue and grove plane to form the the tongue which I then cut into a series of tenons that fit into mortice holes on the other piece (probably over thought the process having now seen this)
    My question is, have I left myself with any unforeseen pitfalls by doing it this way.

    1. Hi,

      Paul says:
      No, there is no pitfall to it, it really was not necessary. Long grain to long grain is one of the strongest unions between components you can get in woodworking.

      Kind Regards,

  2. Thanks Paul,
    I wasn’t sure I was going to enjoy another “table” project, but this is turning out to be very interesting.
    I have to pay a premium for 8/4 and 12/4 stock for a ‘traditional’ square leg, so this alternative may come in handy for a more modern style table, desk, etc.
    I’m thinking of using this alternative for a sideboard, with groves in the legs for a frame-and-panel sides. Would you have any recommendations or concerns that I should consider?

    1. You can. I recall Paul mention that during the video — just glue the legs together.
      The trade-off is a complete dependence on a good clamp… just a bit more difficult due to the leg taper. Your choice.

    2. Hi Antonio,

      Paul says:
      Long grain to long grain gluing is fine, I would be perfectly happy with that but I don’t see what’s wrong with just using plugs because I can carry on working on the project and don’t have to wait for the glue to dry. Secondary fixing like this are perfectly acceptable.

      Kind Regards,

  3. What is the name of the drill bit Paul used to cut the screw-hole plugs? Couldn’t hear in the video because he laid down wood or something on the table; this should be added to the tool list.

    Also, I’m a little confused, because the project drawing on pages 1 and 2 show what I thought were end-grain lines in the legs that I thought indicated some sort of special tenons; what are those in the drawings?

    Although I’m a little dissapointed in the glue-and-screw-and-plug approach, if it’s good enough for Paul it’s certainly good enough for me, and I still can’t wait to see how he does the continuous grain drawer, and this is still something that I can’t wait to make. Thanks, Paul, for designing something specifically with us in mind, since the boards a quite a bit more affordable than the square stock.

    Thanks in advance.

    1. Hi Ted,

      Paul says:

      It’s a plug cutter made by Toshiba, I don’t know if they’re still made but it works great.

      On the drawing, this is a traditional way of showing the profile in the context of a leg.

      Kind Regards,

      1. Izzy, thank you for your work.

        Re: the drawing, that’s interesting, I wouldn’t have thought/known of that … looking back at the drawing right now and trying to figure out how to read it. It appears there’s significance in which piece has a rounded corner on the end grain looking part? In any event, I think the video is clear enough. Thanks again.

    1. I was thinking the same thing, kind of like they do with tongue-and-groove paneling. I’m guessing it’s because molding planes aren’t among the “essential” tools.

      Those whose “plow” plane is the veritas combo plane can use its bead blades; I think purists would scoff at using a plow plane as a molding plane, but I’ve used it to my satisfaction in previous projects.

    2. Hi,

      Paul says:
      An edge bead would have been perhaps an old fashioned method and we were making a modern table. The bead would have made the table old fashioned, not what we wanted.

      Kind Regards,

  4. Nice design on the legs. I found it helpful to erase pencil marks with an eraser before planing, scraping, or sanding to clean up my parts surfaces. I don’t seem to have to work as hard to remove them with the other tools once erased.

  5. I came up with a very easy way to add that cosmetic break line. I used my marking guage I use for laying out mortis holes. I have the one with a sharp wheel instead of the pin. It laid out a perfect line. (Used the first line to set my distance). After I made 3 passes with the mortis tool, then I just simply took my marking knife and very gently ran it down the length of the grove. After 3 passes, I was able to add more pressure. Then I simply ran the knife again with a slight bevel to either side.

    It looks perfect and no worries about my saw jumping the track. Maybe 2 or 3 minutes per leg.

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