Dining Chair – Episode 4
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The next step for the back frame is putting a cove in the back rests which drastically increases the comfort of the chair. Then Paul cuts the mortices for the back slats before cutting and fitting the tenons making sure they are tight with crisp shoulders.
Hi..When you mentioned the spokeshave as a 151 is that a curve blade or a straight blade you are using.
my understanding is the 151 is the model of spokeshave and could be either round 151r or flat 151 I’m sure one of the guys will let us know if I’ve got this wrong
Eddy is spot on. Some more information here:
Why didn’t you layout the slat mortises in the top and bottom back rails before you removed the wood for the curves?
You obviously feel Paul should have been done it differently. Please explain your reasoning, so we can all learn. Thanks.
Because I wanted the widths of the mortise holes to follow the arc so that the mortise holes lie perpendicular to the axis of the arc.
It is fantastic it see a master furniture maker show so much. Learning about the grain and the sound of the cutting and driving tools. I would like to see some of the copies of your drawings. It would make following along with your method much easier.
Thank you for showing us how it is done.
This is unbelievable instruction, the detail and depth of knowledge shared is wonderful. I do have a band saw which I used to rough cut the back posts, however, I believe I’ll cut the curve for the support rails by hand per Paul’s instruction. I had intended to cut my tenons with my table saw, but I tried doing them with hand tools and can’t see any advantage to the table saw. I’m looking at quality English-made tenon saws on Ebay right now and intend to get one. This is my first chair, going to make a complete set for the kitchen, really enjoying the challenge. Thanks for being an excellent instructor, Paul!