Fly Swat: Episode 2

Flyswat Episode 2 Keyframe

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The leather is glued together using a former to hold it in place around the handle. Then the leather can be cut to shape, finish applied and any additional features added.

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  1. bytesplice on 8 November 2017 at 2:17 pm

    Musca domestica everywhere are on notice: yea shall not pass!

    • James Savage on 9 November 2017 at 10:38 am

      Ha ha, I had to Google that one!

      Great project, I’ll be making a couple with my children. Thank you.

  2. paddymurphy on 8 November 2017 at 3:45 pm

    Should you be sawing MDF without a dust mask? I was under the impression that the tiny dust particles given off were as deadly as asbestos.

    • bobeaston on 8 November 2017 at 9:41 pm

      A health and safety agency in the UK advises of the dangers of handling MDF. But it also states “However, the levels of free formaldehyde in boards made within the EU at levels of formaldehyde class E1 are thought to be insignificant. This is because at these levels the resin is fully reacted (polymerised).”

      Toward the bottom of their notice, they advise that respiratory protective equipment be the last line of defense. …after other dust collection measures…

      Hand tool working is our first line of defense. We’re not using spinning machines to throw the dust around. The preponderance drops harmlessly to the floor. If one were to work with MDF frequently and for long periods, and with power tools, then maybe a mask would be useful. But for a couple of cuts by hand tools, the risk looks minimal.

      This is why I love hand toll working. There’s no need to get dressed up in masks, goggles and ear-muffs to enjoy woodworking.

      • paddymurphy on 9 November 2017 at 11:00 am

        Thanks, Bob. Without wishing to sound like a nag, my understanding was that it was the actual size of the particles that were the danger, not so much what they were made of. Tiny dust particles can get inside your lungs and become absorbed by the tissues in the lungs. It’s the accumulation of foreign bodies over time in the cells of your lungs that cause the problems later in life.

        • Philip Adams on 9 November 2017 at 5:01 pm

          Hi Patrick,
          Good question. Bob has it spot on, in that the main benefit with hand tools is that the actions of working aren’t swirling the particles up into the air in the same way as machines do. Therefore there isn’t the same risk of breathing them in. If you were doing more significant work with MDF with hand tools, I think a dust mask would be a good idea.
          Best, Phil

  3. NikonD80 on 8 November 2017 at 8:58 pm

    “It’s not what you make, it’s how you make it.” I love the way that Paul shows as much care and attention to ‘A stick with a piece of leather stuck to it’ as he does with all the other projects. I’ll definitely be making a few of these as Christmas presents.

  4. gargagliano on 10 November 2017 at 3:05 am

    What sort of thread are you using for the stitching? Also, is the hole punch specifically for leather working or just a more generic tool?

    • steel on 10 November 2017 at 2:36 pm

      I´m also interested in these 2 subjects. Furthermore I´m a complete novice to the needle job. I would appreciate a short “how to” or a hint on further information very much. Thank you.

    • henrysingleton on 11 November 2017 at 11:12 pm

      I found waxed linen thread at a shoe repair shop, same stuff they use for other leather goods like shoes and handbags, so a craft store or repair place would be good placed to start. A saddlery would also have it probably.

      You’d want a proper leather needle. They tend to be thicker and more blunt/rounded than fabric sewing needles.

      The punch is also a special leather tool. They can be very expensive for a high quality one, but a local craft shop had some cheaper ones for $20-30.

      • Alan on 13 November 2017 at 3:23 pm

        Leather needles are in most supermarkets nowadays, but if you’re stuck finding one, have a look in the sewing machine compartment. Assorted packs of machine-needles often include one or two for leather.

      • Tim DeMarais on 7 December 2017 at 6:17 pm

        You could also consider using waxed polyester sail twine. It is also used for whipping rope and often comes with a heavy needle. Usually easy to find in marine supply stores. Using a Sailor’s Palm and a good sail needle you may not need an awl.

  5. dovetails on 12 November 2017 at 5:56 pm

    Questions on the materials.

    What glue is needed?
    What is the “reinforcing fabric”?

    • Alan on 13 November 2017 at 3:09 pm

      Whenever I’ve stuck leather, I used Leather Glue. It worked quite well. Evo-Stick does the job too. Or you can use Pearl Glue, Hide Glue…
      It’s not ‘Reinforcing Fabric’, it’s fabric that reinforces. ANY fabric that will reinforce the structure. Cut an off-cut from an article from the Charity Store (after you’ve bought it).

  6. eriksalmon on 13 November 2017 at 2:45 pm

    “Death to all flies” Love it!

  7. Sandy on 16 November 2017 at 9:22 pm

    Tandy Leather has the supplies needed for glueing and sewing. You can also get these things on Amazon. 😏

  8. kjellhar on 2 December 2017 at 10:53 pm

    I made one of these using ash and walnut. The handle came out quite nice. The leather one the other hand, was a bit on the heavy side. I used two pieces of leather just under 2mm each. The stiffness of it is perfect, but it is so heavy I can punch through walls with it.

  9. Jerry Carell on 16 September 2021 at 5:03 pm

    I’d also like to know what fabric was used to to reinforce the leather. In addition, I second the motion to show how to to the stitching. Paul just glossed over it.

    • Katrina Sellers on 24 September 2021 at 10:39 am

      I asked Paul and he said:
      The leather doesn’t need any reinforcement. I used a piece of leather on both sides and glued them together for appearance.

      The stitch I use is a saddle stitch.

  10. ejvc on 28 November 2021 at 2:16 pm

    To those asking about the fabric: any sewing store will have something called “interfacing” which is either sew-in or iron-on. Both will work with leather. It comes in different weights – heavyweight will do handbags, curtain pelmets, and so forth. Medium weight for collars and to reinforce the lapels of jackets. Lightweight for pocket and button-band reinforcements in sheer fabrics. Obviously you only need a bit, so if you are uncertain, buy the smallest quantity you can (1/8 yard or 20cm) and then make a temporary sandwich of two pieces of leather plus interfacing and see how you like it. I can’t advise on a weight because it depends on the weight of your leather; a soft clothing leather might want a heavier interfacing; a medium leather might want a lightweight interfacing and so on. If you haven’t got interfacing (and TBH you don’t really need it) , you can experiment with ordinary fabric – jeans for example are usually comparable to heavyweight interfacing, cotton shirting to medium weight. Avoid fabrics with stretch like t-shirt fabric (a knit construction) or fabrics with lycra or spandex like stretch jeans. Cotton and poly cotton are ok.

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