Hat & Coat Stand: Episode 4

Hat & Coat Stand Episode 4 Keyframe

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The main frame joinery is completed, but before we can glue the frames together, we must create the housing dadoes and grooves to receive the lower shoe shelves. We determine the exact widths to correspond to the individual shelves, just in case there is a difference in thickness due to hand planing the pieces. The dadoes combine with the grooves to receive the bottom shelf, so there should be no discrepancy between the levels. The techniques Paul uses are both traditional and unusual. In this episode, we shape different points to remove the blockiness and enhance the overall appearance before we glue the frames together.

Chapters:

SHELF HOUSINGS – 00:00

SIDE FRAME SHAPING – 24:30

6 Comments

  1. Gary Gibbons on 11 March 2020 at 2:48 pm

    I’d have to deepen the knife walls of the housing dadoes with a chisel before using my tenon saw in them! But then I don’t have 50 years of experience!
    Someday maybe…

    • jakegevorgian on 13 March 2020 at 6:09 am

      You could probably use a block of wood as a fence to push your tenon saw up against and easily cut those dadoes..

  2. Benoît Van Noten on 11 March 2020 at 4:45 pm

    look at the video “the Paul Sellers knifewall technique” at about 2’55.
    The knifewall itself is not enough to guide a saw.

    Dado demonstrated in the same video at about 3’50”

    • Marc-Andre Petit on 11 March 2020 at 9:58 pm

      Can you put a frame drawer support the same way in a panel construction carcass?

      Sorry if i used the wrong term.

  3. Carole Burns on 12 March 2020 at 12:30 am

    Such pleasure you give to all your members to watch you work.

  4. joeleonetti on 13 March 2020 at 8:05 pm

    Hi Paul,
    I’d like to thank you for showing the use of the Shinto “rasp” in the video. Based on something you posted a while ago I bought one (just arrived this week) to include in a portable tool kit I’m making. I liked the price as for the portable tool kit I want to keep expenses low lest something be stolen. Seeing the Shinto rasp in action in this video gave me added confidence it works very well.

    I noticed in the bottom shelf housing that you cut that the dado portion in the back wasn’t as deep as the rest. I would have thought the depth should be uniform. Are you planning to make alterations to the back shelf to that it fits? Why not use a uniform depth for the rear shelf dado? I am sure all will make sense in the next episode.

    Thanks,
    Joe

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