1. thank you so much for this project Paul, i’ve not done much surface thicknessing (not nearly as much as i should have done this far into the journey) but i am determined to follow this project to the letter,i hope i can do it half the justice you do, thanks again .

  2. when Paul introduced us to the scrub plane and how to set it up in “tools & techniques ” it transformed my approach to hand tool woodworking it is a fantastic tool that makes working wood easier and more enjoyable . a £10 old stanley dedicated to scrubbing . i will enjoy this one and happy christmas everyone

  3. Thanks Paul for another great lesson! I never would have thought of using the “raised panel” technique with a scrub plane to prevent tear out. I’ve been gradually accumulating a good starter set of hand tools for my son (and HIS son) and I think this will be the perfect chest to present them in. Merry Christmas, my friend!
    Gary Blair
    Lander, Wyoming

      1. Hi ej
        Thanks for that but Greg shows the width of the two boards glued together 12 3/4″ I take it Paul was using 8 ” (7 3/4″ planed) wide boards) as I think that would be a normal standard size up from 6″ wide boards
        The drawing I can see from Greg says sheet 1 of 4 I take it there are a further 3 drawings to come

  4. Great way to work off some of the Holiday calories. Love it.
    I have always wanted to make my very own tool chest and now you and your staff are leading me to it. I know it will be “PERFECT”
    Thank you so much

  5. Paul, you have my admiration. I was planing a similar size board but only to get cup and twist out, I wasn’t even planing to thickness and it took me seven cups of tea and several handsfull of shavings to mop my sweaty brow………gasp!

  6. When thicknessing a panel like this, does it matter much if the middle is inexact? Seems like in hand work, it is the edges that are critical to get precise, as that is where the joinery is going to happen. The middle just needs to look good. Not trying to be lazy, just an observation. What say?

  7. It’s funny, I just finished your 2007 joiner’s traveling fall-front toolbox last week. But this week the wife wants a small three drawer dresser. I found that I really needed a lesson on joining some 3/4 inch pine. And well-ah!

    Thanks Paul

  8. Regarding wood selection, Paul says he is using pine. Which type would be ideal? I can only find Southern Yellow pine where I live in the Carribean, which I’ve found less friendly than it’s softer cousins. If white pine isn’t a choice, would southern yellow be the next best, or a workable hardwood such as a mahogany sub like jequitiba or sapele (which are very reasonably priced out here).

    1. White pine is a good choice really. Though soft, it’s light and has good strength to weight ratio. Substitute hardwoods is fine too in my view, especially as most people are not really going from house to house for work as in days of old.

  9. Thanks for this video to Paul and his crew. He makes it look so simple that even though I am a relative beginner he has inspired me to have a go. I know I wont find it as easy as he make it look but I am using it as a tutorial and have surprised myself more that once even though I have made a few howlers and had to do a restart. I anticipate that one day I may even get it completed. Thanks Paul.

  10. Pretty excited about finally starting this project since my collection of hand tools is becoming unruly. knocked out all the edge jointing earlier today, totally pumped to give the pile of planes a home.

  11. Paul, in talking about the old box you said that you “re-did the joinery on the corners”. So I’m curious, how do you re-do a dovetail joint to make it tight again? All I can think of is to cut off the pins, clean up the dovetails, and re-cut the pins to match them. However this would make the ends shorter and the box slightly shallower front to back.

    Thanks for another great lesson.
    Houston TX

  12. Being a very novice woodworker – in fact just starting – I’m curious if Cedar would react to the same planing techniques shown in this video (if, indeed, cedar may be planed like this at all)?


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