13 Comments

  1. Another example that says precision doesn’t need complicated tools! Simple jigs, good tools and careful work. A great lesson for this wood hacker. Thanks for another great lesson.

  2. When cutting the end of a long moulding, I find supporting the opposite end both essential and awkward.
    If the front panel of this Mitre Box was say 1/2″ deeper than the back, it could function as a bench-hook or held in the vice.
    The Mitre Block would then sit forward on the bench, giving a little more stability but more-importantly allowing the bench to support the moulding while you cut it.

  3. There doesn’t look to be a lot of meat to that small front section between the saw cuts. I’d worry it might get shifted a bit in prolonged use. Might it be better to have greater distance between the cuts — though of course that would call for a longer box overall?

  4. Hello Paul,
    Having made your shooting board, and now see you using a miter cutting box for a cornice, I have to ask if you use the miter box to create all your small box/cigar humidor/jewelry box sides? OR, do you have some sort of “angle component/jig” that you attach to the shooting board which would enable the handplane to create the vertical side 45’s of a box not the horizontal 45’s of a picture frame?
    Thanks with best wishes-PW

  5. Great video. I’ve built something similar a while back but wasn’t happy with the result and will try this approach.

    What brand of double sided tape did you use and where can I buy it? All I find around here is narrow and good for paper but not wood.

    Thanks,

    john

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