1. – Paul, in these two last video, you seem exhausted as if you were starting a flu but had decided “the show must go on”.
    Although, the video are not diffused immediately but, for those two, many weeks later.
    Please, don’t stretch the elastic too far.

    – If one want to be able to slide out/in the well board ( easier access to the back wedges, access to install the drawer slides, …) it might be interesting to have some clearance instead of a snug fit. Otherwise it might be necessary to unmount the L-beam (worbench-top glued to front apron) first.
    On my solid-wood workbench, I didn’t even screwed the well board.
    What about using the space between the aprons under the top/well-bard?

    1. I am in the process of building this bench with two slight modifications — using two slabs with a center well and overall length is slightly longer at just under 7’. I would very much like to have a sliding center well bottom to have ready access for clamps. The idea of a little wiggle room for easy removal is keen.

      Would be Interested in Paul’s opinion of trying a sliding center well bottom or building a tray with reinforced sides to pop in and out (center well will be 4-5 inches).

      Love this series as well as the previous solid bench build. Learning to Paul’s cadence and background music is therapeutic — bought three planes during this process and looking forward to finishing and begins building more projects with hand tools.

      1. The workbench build in the back garden in 2012 had two slabs:

        (One can zoom on the technical drawings with “ctrl +” or using Ctrl key and mouse wheel)

        The well was screwed from under (which is not absolutely necessary in my view as screwing the slabs to the leg-frames ensure the the leg-frames and the apron remain a rectangle and doesn’t become a lozenge under longitudinal stress, although it might gives this already sturdy workbench a little extra sturdiness). The joint between the slabs and the well was hidden by quarter round moldings.
        video: look for “how to build a workbench – (part 11) fitting the well board”

        This was a very high, long and wide workbench. The height was adapted to Phil. I adapted the measures to build mine with a single slab and 1.50 m long.

    2. Hi Benoît,

      Paul says:

      When I built the original prototype, I did in fact enclose the underside of the bench top apron to apron which gave me great tool storage. I didn’t add that in this workbench build because I wanted to keep it simple and anyone can customise their bench once they have built it as I did.

      Kind Regards,

    1. – make the back apron (18 mm) thicker;
      – make the workbench-top (18 mm) wider; and
      – keep the tool-well board down in two grooves without having to plough those grooves.
      (grooves and rabbets were ploughed to install the tool-well on the solid-wood workbench)

  2. Brilliant, Just Brilliant …

    I am just getting started setting up my garage to have a tool and working corner … I’ve got some old chisels, saws, couple of planes …

    I have purchased the three sharpening stones and plan on putting together the sharpening-center first.

    Then on to saw horses and perhaps a project then when everything looks settled I would love to make the plywood work bench.

    I can not say enough about how wonderful, and inspiring every thing that Mr Paul Sellers does is to me.

  3. Hi Paul,
    Thanks a lot to share your skills and ideas, what a great moment when I finalize my plywood bench! I’m a woodworker (only in my free moments) for 20 years, but never have enough space to work on something else that black&decker work mate and prefer to do all things by hand…. A nightmare when use it with planes :'(
    Now, I can buy raw wood and plane it without breaking my back, it’ s a dream that come true because of you.
    Thks From France

  4. On the solid wood workbench, Paul used 2.5″ stock (before flattening).
    A thick benchtop adds mass and rigidity.
    It doesn’t bounce back much when chopping on it (although it is always better to chop above one of the workbench foot).
    The tool well depth will only be the difference between the benchtop thickness and the well board thickness. Although, Paul adds a second tool well that one can make as deep as one whishes.
    IMHO the benefit, if any, of going above 3″ doesn’t justify the expense.

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