1. Hi Paul, great project!

    I have a question about using the rasp.
    the cherry seems to work very nicely, but if you had used oak there is a good chance the rasp would have ripped up splinters on the outside end of the stroke. I’m curios how you would have handled it if that were the case?


  2. Great project . I’m still struggling to plane my oak without year out but improved hugely with a well setup 4 1/2 or 5 1/2 but still fail to see how you tackle really difficult grains as yes a cabinet scraper works but this does not have the benefit of the long sole . The long planes too put leaving more planing to get rid of the marks.

    I try from many angles and keep tweaking the plane but I’m trying this project with oak and all bar one piece have turned out fine.
    You don’t advocate a lie angle plain though in many posts. Why?

    A few questions
    Are you planning any advanced courses or days that are less than 9 days as not everyone can get this much time off or have learned a lot and want to tailor things to experience.

    What will the next project be?
    Keep up the great site.

    1. Robin, if I may, I suggest you google “correct use of the chip breaker” and read up on some posts at place like Sawmillcreek forums where they discuss the subject in depth. a correctly set chipbreaker will eliminate tear out 99% of the time, even against the grain with any wood I’ve tried so far.

      your other option would be a higher angle of attach, you could give your blade a tiny back bevel to achieve this, though I personally would prefer to use a spare blade.

      I hope this helps,

  3. I’m not sure if I may be misunderstanding what you are saying but in episode 3 between 3 and 5 minutes I used the knife and took the exact distance between the two legs directly from the inside wall of the housing dado, which is not angled but square and perpendicular and also straight. I then emphasised the use of a sharp pencil to give good visual for subsequent layout and used the knife marks to establish perfect matching to the distance between the walls of the top. I used the knife to get the exact distance so that there would be no compromise in this important distance. The match being perfect, leaves no unresolved issue unless I am missing what you are saying here.

    Re the misfit dovetailing: Obviously it is important not to undersize the dovetail in relation to the dovetailed housing because the joint will not slide and lock as they should so as to be relied on. You will need to replace that piece, the leg, if you do indeed chisel inaccurately. If it’s fatter than it should be then you can either shave of a couple of shaving off the inside face of the leg piece or adjust the guide used to guide the chisel and take a shaving off the dovetail itself.

    I think it is important to realise that if the dovetailed angle across both aspects of the dovetail joint are not perfect and by that I mean perhaps a very thins shaving out, the wood does compress and take up the shortfall as long as the wood is slightly fat.

  4. My daughter Destiny (9) has looked this over and is chomping at the bit to make one for her room, she picked out some silver maple for it. Now she is bugging me to finish fixing the shop and build a bench again so she can get to work on it. She is really impressed with the joints and has already tryed to make the bridal from some pine scraps, it came out slope but she says it’s ok for a first try she intends to make a few more till it looks ok. This is one I will stand back and let her go at it.

    1. Frank
      Please do keep us all updated with your daughter’s work. It’s brilliant that you’ve got another generation interested in woodworking. When you say you’ll stand back on ‘this one’; had she been working on other projects with you already? How did you get her up to speed?
      I ask because my daughter is starting her woodworking journey and I don’t think I’m stepping back enough.


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