1. I would also like a similar video about shoulder planes.

      I’ve seen somewhere before where Paul essentially says it, too, “…is not a tool which would be classed as an ‘essential’, but it is certainly one which is worthy of an honourable mention”.

  1. Bought mine in the nineteen fifties and used it in my work. And ever since. Still looks good, still does everything Paul says. His last tip about the overwide blade might not be obvious. The designer makers knew what they were doing. It also had the advantage long ago of being part in a tool kit I took on a bus. Still running on the original battery! A tool for finessing, just as Paul shows.

    Thank you again Mr Sellers

  2. Perfect timing for this episode! I just yesterday acquired a vintage Stanley 90 Bullnose. I’ve been looking for a while based on your mentions of this plane in other videos.

    Any advise on how to properly tune this plane? What angle do you sharpen the blade to? Any special watchouts or tips on how to get the best results?


    p.s.; I’ve been watching your videos for some time, but this is my first post. I absolutely love how you bring things to life in such a practical and approachable manner. That truly is lost art in the world today.

  3. Instead of using a fence as Paul suggests, I’ve been known to cant my shoulder plane 45 degrees or so and run it down a scribe line to create a v-groove. After to groove is started, I start to level the plane as I continue to shave to create my rabbet (rebate). This usually requires a quick clean-up of the shoulder, but that’s very easy since I already have the right plane in my hand.

    1. Exactly Kent…..I often use a scribed groove ( and a sticking board) when using one of my skewed wooden rebate planes…….many different ways to achieve a rebate…..all good fun

  4. Thanks for another great video. I purchased a no. 92 Stanley shoulder plane a while back and I love it. Since I have had the 92 though I have been wanting to order the smaller bullnose plane so I think that’s my next investment. So thanks for the insight. I never buy new tools though because I love just collecting the older planes and tools. Every time I get one, I will spend days thinking about it’s journey and who may have owned it before and what kind of workshop it might have been in. Thanks again and I am looking forward to the next video.

    1. The Stanley 90 has already been pretty high priced on eBay. I have been looking for quite a while, and just snuck in on an auction that ended early last Sunday morning and scored a good deal.

  5. And there goes the price of bullnose planes on eBay.

    Coincidentally, that was the first use I found for a bullnose–trimming a drawer recess; nothing else would work.

    Thanks, Paul. I never noticed mine had an adjustable nose until now.

  6. I have one and only ever used it for one operation. All those operations shown in the video other than taking the corners off can be performed with a rebate plane or a shoulder plane. There is far too little real estate in front of the blade to give any satisfactory cut on for example a shoulder of a tenon upon entering the cut. Either way, regardless shoulder or bullnose, trimming shoulders on tenons, I feel doesn’t belong in the hand tool arena, but was more devised for the machinists who cut perfect 90° tenons and shoulders and needs to take a few thou off.

  7. I actually have a couple of those I picked up at a tool sale years ago. I think it is an essential tool and I use it often on tinons for final fitting. Great short video for a great tool use.

  8. Hi Paul,
    as a matter of interest perhaps, I bought a small bullnose/chisel plane from a junk shop about 45 years ago for a pound or two, I forget now much I pad now but it was minimal, I’ve used it ever since and it turned out to be a Preston 2509 with removable nose. Unfortunately it is fitted with a Record replacement blade and not the original Preston cast steel one.

  9. Hi Paul, Very interesting video, I bought mine on your recommendation and have not been disappointed 🙂
    I have used it on more than one project and it has become one of my favourite planes.
    Can you explain more how to adjust a door’s frame if it is twisted please?

    1. Hi,

      Paul says:
      You bring the door to close the point that it touches the free style. Whatever distance discrepancy you have is the amount you must remove from the high point. You can chisel down to the low point by that amount and then you must plane into the low point.


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