Wall Hung Tool Cabinet – episode 4


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The dovetails are all cut, so it’s time to check they all go together. With that done Paul decides on the orientation of the cabinet so that he can start the layout of the frame which will divide off the space for the drawers. He talks through the features of the panel and lays out the housing dadoes that he then cuts into the main carcass.

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  1. redwood on 16 December 2015 at 3:01 pm

    Thanks guys, great job 😉

  2. davedev on 16 December 2015 at 3:28 pm

    Hi Paul, I had a query on episode three which did not get a response, so I would like to have another go. It’s on exactly where you make the saw cuts for the pins. Unfortunately, despite Phils excellent video, we could not see exactly where you are making the cuts as the knife cut did not show up and your pen lines were away from the camera. Early on you say you could cut 2mm away from the line. Then when you cut the first pin, you say ‘ I drop my saw right on the knife line – no margin for error – right on the line’. Later you say to cut to the waste side of the line. I would be grateful if you could clarify this as this would be really helpful to me. You took four attempts to fit the tails to the pins and admitted it was ‘tricky’. For me that would be 10 to 20 attempts!
    PS. Where is your book? It was on my Christmas list, but now I have had to ask for a book by Krenov, a poor substitute.

    • Paul Sellers on 16 December 2015 at 6:55 pm

      Thanks for the patience. I just answered your last question not realising this was the same one. The book, well we were there but then we decided to add and subtract to improve what we had and it is now more top notch than before. We are determined for giving our best with this and we hope it will a new year inspiration for all.

      • davedev on 17 December 2015 at 10:09 am

        Thanks for that, Paul. It’s what I guessed you meant. A merry Christmas to you and Phil and Joseph and I look forwards to hearing your plans for 2016. The quality of what you do far surpasses anything else that is out there, so all power to your elbow and sawing arm!

      • stevewales on 17 December 2015 at 3:41 pm

        hi Paul,
        I noticed that the juuma holddown was leaving marks on the wood.
        Are they compression marks or just from the newness of the rubber foot?

        • stevewales on 17 December 2015 at 7:36 pm

          Sorry, that was supposed to be a “reply” to the next query.

        • Paul Sellers on 21 December 2015 at 6:18 pm

          It is from the pads. As with all holdfasts, they need a wooden pad between to workpiece.

  3. Eric on 16 December 2015 at 6:50 pm

    What brand adjustable holdfast are you using? Thanks

  4. brian18741 on 16 December 2015 at 9:01 pm

    Paul another great idea with dog / hold fast holder vice accessory thing! Great video!

  5. Joseph Palas on 16 December 2015 at 9:06 pm

    Wonderful Video offering Paul. I happily await your book. I just may have to build a coffee table on which to place it. 🙂

  6. STEVE MASSIE on 16 December 2015 at 9:32 pm

    I am learning so much with every project and episode you make, I will probably use pine as this is what is readily availble to me. Thanks for all of the tips and tricks you use. As I have mentioned I really don’t need another cabinet but want to make this one.

    Thanks again !


  7. aintgonnahappen on 16 December 2015 at 11:52 pm

    Your bench dog system is sweet. This is some of the best money i have ever spent; like going to a fine school.

  8. stevewales on 17 December 2015 at 7:41 pm

    Is the hand router used with the Spear-Point or straight cutter for Dado cutting?

    • Joseph Palas on 17 December 2015 at 8:53 pm

      ooo that’s a good question. I’d love to know as well.

      • ballinger on 18 December 2015 at 12:07 am

        I suspect he’s using the square cutter but only as that’s all I’ve ever seen in his videos and blogs. Not saying he doesn’t use the spear point – it seems like Paul skews the cutter by feel to get the best cut.

        • stevewales on 18 December 2015 at 4:51 am

          Paul’s Blog entry “questions-answered-what-are-pointed-blades-for-on-router-planes”
          Answers my own question.
          There are a number of blog articles devoted to the 71 Router.

          (I have come to realize that you can generally answer your own questions with a quick “JFGI”
          (Just F** Google It!!)

  9. knightlylad on 17 December 2015 at 9:50 pm

    Thank you for the lesson.

  10. Brian M on 20 December 2015 at 6:32 pm

    Hi Paul. Early in Episode 4 you show where a board bowed while sitting overnight. I guess in the best of situations, we’d be able to cut the joinery, get everything fitted and glued up, and apply finish in one glorious woodworking session. Oh well. It’s a nice thought, right? LOL Anyway, on the topic of storing work pieces overnight … What would be the pros and cons for assembling the pieces and leaving them that way overnight? Would the joinery reduce or eliminate wood movement even though the joints are not glued? On the other hand, would overnight compression inside the joints cause them to loosen up?
    I’d like to know your thoughts.
    Thank you for all the great work you and your crew are doing!

  11. Philip Adams on 21 December 2015 at 12:27 pm

    Hello Steve, it did mark the wood somewhat. All holdfasts do mark the wood, so it is best to use a block or shim in-between to avoid this.
    Best, Phil

  12. jmac1885 on 28 December 2015 at 1:04 pm

    Paul, craftsmen in the pre-power days must have been a very patient group of people. Why thin down all those 3/4″ boards to 9/16ths ?

  13. Nick Latraille on 4 June 2020 at 1:31 am

    My favorite of Paul’s videos, the comment about how we all desire to build something that will be talked about by our grandchildren.

    I really wish you hadn’t hyped up router planes so much because now I can’t afford one lol, I need one so bad and see you use yours for every project, do you have an extra that you could trade?

  14. Colin Scowen on 4 June 2020 at 6:52 am

    You can always make the poor mans router plane, or you can follow one of the other you tube videos for making a router plane, or look on the second hand tool websites for a granny’s tooth router. I have a shop made one using an allen key and a ring bolt with a wing nut.
    If you truly must have a 70/71 type, don’t rely on ebay, shop around. Just looking at the two UK sites I look at, I see one for 40 pounds and one for 100 pounds.
    Or buy a cheap wooden rebate plane and attach some depth adjusters to the sides.
    Don’t let collectors stop you woodworking, there’s always another way to do these things.

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