23 Comments

  1. Hi Paul, I had a query on episode three which did not get a response, so I would like to have another go. It’s on exactly where you make the saw cuts for the pins. Unfortunately, despite Phils excellent video, we could not see exactly where you are making the cuts as the knife cut did not show up and your pen lines were away from the camera. Early on you say you could cut 2mm away from the line. Then when you cut the first pin, you say ‘ I drop my saw right on the knife line – no margin for error – right on the line’. Later you say to cut to the waste side of the line. I would be grateful if you could clarify this as this would be really helpful to me. You took four attempts to fit the tails to the pins and admitted it was ‘tricky’. For me that would be 10 to 20 attempts!
    PS. Where is your book? It was on my Christmas list, but now I have had to ask for a book by Krenov, a poor substitute.

    1. Thanks for the patience. I just answered your last question not realising this was the same one. The book, well we were there but then we decided to add and subtract to improve what we had and it is now more top notch than before. We are determined for giving our best with this and we hope it will a new year inspiration for all.

      1. Thanks for that, Paul. It’s what I guessed you meant. A merry Christmas to you and Phil and Joseph and I look forwards to hearing your plans for 2016. The quality of what you do far surpasses anything else that is out there, so all power to your elbow and sawing arm!

  2. I am learning so much with every project and episode you make, I will probably use pine as this is what is readily availble to me. Thanks for all of the tips and tricks you use. As I have mentioned I really don’t need another cabinet but want to make this one.

    Thanks again !

    Steve

      1. I suspect he’s using the square cutter but only as that’s all I’ve ever seen in his videos and blogs. Not saying he doesn’t use the spear point – it seems like Paul skews the cutter by feel to get the best cut.

        1. Paul’s Blog entry “questions-answered-what-are-pointed-blades-for-on-router-planes”
          Answers my own question.
          There are a number of blog articles devoted to the 71 Router.

          (I have come to realize that you can generally answer your own questions with a quick “JFGI”
          (Just F** Google It!!)

  3. Hi Paul. Early in Episode 4 you show where a board bowed while sitting overnight. I guess in the best of situations, we’d be able to cut the joinery, get everything fitted and glued up, and apply finish in one glorious woodworking session. Oh well. It’s a nice thought, right? LOL Anyway, on the topic of storing work pieces overnight … What would be the pros and cons for assembling the pieces and leaving them that way overnight? Would the joinery reduce or eliminate wood movement even though the joints are not glued? On the other hand, would overnight compression inside the joints cause them to loosen up?
    I’d like to know your thoughts.
    Thank you for all the great work you and your crew are doing!

  4. My favorite of Paul’s videos, the comment about how we all desire to build something that will be talked about by our grandchildren.

    I really wish you hadn’t hyped up router planes so much because now I can’t afford one lol, I need one so bad and see you use yours for every project, do you have an extra that you could trade?

  5. You can always make the poor mans router plane, or you can follow one of the other you tube videos for making a router plane, or look on the second hand tool websites for a granny’s tooth router. I have a shop made one using an allen key and a ring bolt with a wing nut.
    If you truly must have a 70/71 type, don’t rely on ebay, shop around. Just looking at the two UK sites I look at, I see one for 40 pounds and one for 100 pounds.
    Or buy a cheap wooden rebate plane and attach some depth adjusters to the sides.
    Don’t let collectors stop you woodworking, there’s always another way to do these things.

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