We’re ready to fit the last section of moulding, which has to be done with care. Once the mitre is cut, the nick in the back corner can be removed so the final fit can take place. This requires careful adjustment of the edges meeting the cabinet, the support and the other mitred piece. Then…

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Paul goes through a system for fitting a cornice to a cabinet so that it is removable. He builds up a frame on the cabinet and then shows how to measure, cut and fit the mitre on each corner. This shows how it will look when finished before gluing then screwing it in place. You…

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Paul shows how to use hand techniques to make a cornice. This might be just what you need to finish off a project. The first step is a 45° cut on both edges. Then a round bottom plane (as made in this project) is used to scallop the midsection, followed by the scraper and a…

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With the clamps removed, Paul fits the drawer to the recess using a plane and cabinet scraper. Once fitted, the drawer bottom is cut to size and fixed in place in the groove, then screwed in place. Paul also shows how to carefully fit a rebated solid drawer bottom, as an alternative option.

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For the back of the drawers, Paul uses a housing dado combined with a through tenon. He goes through the layout with a combination of the knife, pencil and mortice gauge. The then cuts the housing and then tenon, using the knife to ensure an exact fit. This finishes off the joinery on the draws, and we are ready to glue up.

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Paul’s second method for cutting a half-lapped dovetail uses a rebate to aid alignment of the joint. With the front of the drawer jointed, he ploughs the groove for the drawer bottom. The front is then fitted to the drawer recess and the sides are cut to length. With that done, we are prepared for the rear joinery.

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